Thread: 300 Tdi Defender radiator

New rads are about £140 here. And they are a new design with an aluminium core, like modern radiators.

Originally Posted by Terrain Vehicles

New rads are about £140 here. And they are a new design with an aluminium core, like modern radiators.

Mmm wonder how much they are here?

Assuming the rest of it is still serviceable, I'd probably go for a re-core again.

It's also worth noting that you can get 5x cores in the Def 300TDi rad, the regular one is a 3 core.

M

Went to the local radiator shop, new was $710, opted to get it recored again, $524. Last recore was 8 years ago at the same place and cost $425. Happy enough to pull tanks off the radiator in the LJ50 but if that leaks it'll be a lot closer to home and much easier to take out again. I'm really not a fan of removing the radiator in the Defender and I guess I can expect another 8 or so years out of it.

Had to put a new one in the GU Patrol a few months back thanks to stray current.

That's one of the major downsides with aluminium cores, and with the plethora of crook earths a Defender seems to breed, I think the old copper/brass radiator has some positives still. (no pun intended )

FWIW the new aluminium Adrad radiator for the TD42T was $440.
Looks like it's cured our overheating issue with it too, now I just have to get the Defender re-cored to stop it getting too warm.
BTW 2stroke, those prices you've been quoted are a lot cheaper than a PWR aluminium radiator, they're up around the $1200 mark.

Thanks camel_landy, didn't realise you could get a 5 row core in between the tanks, I'll ask the rad shop now how much more $$ he'll be taking from us.



It never ends, does it.

Get the bypass hole blocked,that makes a world of difference. Pat

Any potential issues if I get the bypass blocked? I assume it only exists to allow flow when the cores are blocked? I considered a 4 or 5 core core but it cools fine when the radiator is good and the rear 2 cores would only absorb heat the first 3 radiate off. Even though the radiator is fairly hard to access in a desert or somesuch at least I can solder it in the field if needed. Not sure what you do with the plastic tank/ally ones.
I'm assuming also the oil pressure issue may have been caused by the oil cooler not cooling oil? Still think I'll do the big ends while it's down though.

Just flush it every year and you won't have an issue. Pat