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Thread: 130 dc on a 110 chassis

  1. #1
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    130 dc on a 110 chassis

    Hi all,
    just thinking of possibilities for a new build.
    Could you put a 130 dual cab body on a 110 chassis and have the body mounts line up.

  2. #2
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    Hi Fitzy, since Land Rover actually make a 110 DC I reckon the chances of everything lining up are good.Cheers, 130man.

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    What about the fill in part of the 130 cab where the rear wheels will go on a 110 chassis ???

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 130man View Post
    Hi Fitzy, since Land Rover actually make a 110 DC I reckon the chances of everything lining up are good.Cheers, 130man.
    The 110 dual cab is actually with a styleside ute, or more accurately the dual cab 110 is just a 110 stationwagon with a dual cab roof and rear window panel with a fill in panel below the rear windows.
    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR jnr. View Post
    What about the fill in part of the 130 cab where the rear wheels will go on a 110 chassis ???
    Just think 110 wagon, the doors are the same but the angled up rear corner only has a small trapesoid panel where the fill-in panel is on the 130.

    Then think about the panel at the back of a single cab ute. That panel has to sit about the same space the wheelarch occupies.

    If can be done but not as simply as you think. Just watch my Ikea 6X6 thread, we are about to do exactly the mods you are thinking about as the centre axle is in the 110" position.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #5
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    The 110 dual cab is a great looking vehicle, but the tub is not very practiclal.
    I am looking at building a dual purpose vehicle, a 110 daul cab with a tray.
    I have seen a few chops on 110's but if starting from scratch, factory fit would be preferable.

  6. #6
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    If you already have a 110 wagon, it would likely be easier to start off with that. What you would need to acquire would be the d/c roof and rear window/corners panel. Then cut down your 110 rear tub and make up a rear wall out of sheet alloy, a few angle iron sections and stick it together with Sikkaflex and a few pop rivets to hold it together while the Sikka cures. Top that off with the capping from the rear bottom panel of a single cab ute.

    That way you don't have to make the chassis/body mounts.

    The tray on the back won't be very big though!

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    I will be using parts from my 2 door rangie, 4.6 ,zf, 30% lt230, maxi's and other stuff, all the body and chassis will be from scratch.

  8. #8
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    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hi,
    check your local regulations, ours are that the tray can only extend past the rear axle by 60% of the length of the wheel base.

    cheers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fitzy View Post
    I will be using parts from my 2 door rangie, 4.6 ,zf, 30% lt230, maxi's and other stuff, all the body and chassis will be from scratch.
    You will find that a 100" Range Rover chassis will put the rear wheels in the same space as the rear doors of the 110!

    It sounds like a big job to convert a RRc to a DC defender, in fact if I were to do that I'd actually be looking at how I could re-skin the RRc doors with the Defender profile, if only because the RRc has more shoulder and footwell space.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #10
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    pretty sure he's using a 110 chassis as it says in the title of the thread

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