Thread: D90 build - 35's min lift & track width,locked, rear winch?

I run 35s on my 90 on 15 x 8 dynamic steel rims with a -25mm offset. I have +2" flexiflares as they stuck out over 2" with the standard flares. Mine has about 75mm of lift with no cutting of arches and standard bumpstops, not had any problems to date (not to say i wont in the future). No vibrations that i have noticed.

I feel like the drive ratio is fine, if anything slightly better (although I am running 3.9 V8 with extractors and wolf3D management). Never really felt that 1st Low was too high. You have the 6 speed so should be fine (mine is LT77).

At the moment I am running standard diffs and havent had any problems. Arriving today i have some new diffs complete with front and rear air lockers, maxi drive 24 spline axles, pegged and heat treated R&Ps and HD drive flanges.

From my own research (not from personal experience) standard axles + lockers and 35s wont last too long.


It sounds like it will quite the weapon if you do all that to it!

If that's the plan and you're not bothered with waranty (yours is a MY12 Puma?), the first step would be very good aftermarket wide yoke propshafts. Puma Defenders have a unique angle from their T'case to the diffs that will cause you endless hassle with installing a lift while still running the original propshafts.

Just be aware that LR Australia has a general dim view on any driveline modifications and they will more than likely give you difficulty with fitting the tyres even without any of the other mods you're planning...

Originally Posted by TheTinnie

Hi, I just bought my new D90 2 weeks ago. I've got a few questions around recommended parts to fit it out which I've read either conflicting ideas or haven't found yet!

I have near new 35's I would like to make use of, I'm aware of the disadvantages and consequences of running 35's in general but not specifically for the defender

Is there anything similar to jks quick sway bar disconnects for the defender? Front and/or rear (might not matter with next question)

Not that I know of.

What's absolute minimum lift or bumpstop extension req'd to fit 35's? I have read up on driveline vibration issues just from going to OME 2" lift does this still hold true on MY12?

I have a 2" spring lift and that is all. It will depend though on what size tyres in terms of width and the offset on the rims. I got away with running 35/10.5 15s without too much drama on a -25 wheel, but my 35/13.5's had a nasty habit of removing my flares, and folding up my front wing skins on the same wheels.

What's the optimal backspace for 16" x8 rims to keep within nsw track width increase limit (50mm) over the sawtooth alloy option on the puma?(widest avail factory option) Is a change in backspace even necessary or can fitting them be accomplished by changing flares and inner guards etc?

what are the most common lockers used - manual cable/electric or air leakers?

I would look to Ashcroft as my first choice. Avoid KAM, who knows if they are even in business this week. ARB's are good too. I have had them since 05 with basically no issues.

Is the rear axle/diff centre stronger than front set up? Would the rear diff be strong enough for 35's + locker without doing chromo axles (halfshafts) ?

If you are gentle yes it will survive. 90's arent so hard on diffs as 110's. I have never broken a cw+p in mine, but did manage to clean break the layshaft in the gearbox! The long rear axle is the one that will break first.

is the re-gear actually required?keeping in mind the final drive is already better than what other vehicles on 4.10s have?

I would say maybe not, but I dont have a puma so am not sure what the gearing is like. Mine drives better in terms of gearing on the larger tyres on the road, but they are heavy, etc etc

Any local Rear winch bar available WITH a tow hitch?

Not that I know of. I made mine. Devon4x4 and North off road supply replacement winch mount rear cross members, but these likely wouldnt be set up for receiver hitches as they arent legal in the UK - I have seen bolt on rear winch mounts but these hammer the departure angle.

Apologies for long list of questions, I am sure I will have many more !

Thanks for your help & guidance!

See bold text!

ps, as Loubrey has commented, LR may not be too keen on keeping your warranty!

pps I ran 33's twin locked on standard axles/cv's for years with zero breakages.

Thanks for your insight, I’ve done all of this on my JK Wrangler so just trying to figure out the best way to approach it on the Defender

The standard offset is 0mm on the 16x7” rims though isn’t it? So if you increase rim width by an inch AND lower offset by -25mm the effect on track width increase is going to be 75mm which is 25mm over the engineering requirements here in NSW (unless the new rules allow greater than 50mm with sign off?)

Could the 75mm lift to clear the 35’s be done as a combination of 50mm (2”) lift + 1” extended bump stops and/or cutting or pumping of arches rather than go straight to 3” of spring lift?

Jitterbug – how long have you been running around on standard diffs for??

Has anyone dropped the transfer case down with a spacer kit to alleviate the driveline angle issue?

i will measure the exact width of my tyres, they actually are 35" tall (eg. unlike BFG KM2's) but not 100% sure on the 12.5 width accuracy!

let me know if this info should go / is already elsewhere:

MY12 gearing

Transmission type GFT MT-82 (6 Speed Manual)
Four wheel drive system type LT230Q Transfer Box

Transmission ratios
1st :1 5.441
2nd :1 2.839
3rd :1 1.721
4th :1 1.223
5th :1 1.000
6th :1 0.742
Reverse :1 4.89

Final drive ratio :1 3.54:1
Transfer box ratio (High/Low) :1 1.211 / 3.269

Overall Gearing
1st (High / Low) :1 23.325 / 62.965
2nd (High / Low) :1 12.171 / 32.854
3rd (High / Low) :1 7.378 / 19.916
4th (High / Low) :1 5.243 / 14.153
5th (High / Low) :1 4.287 / 11.572
6th (High / Low) :1 3.181 / 8.587
Reverse (High / Low) :1 21.156 / 57.109

Originally Posted by TheTinnie

Thanks for your insight, I’ve done all of this on my JK Wrangler so just trying to figure out the best way to approach it on the Defender

The standard offset is 0mm on the 16x7” rims though isn’t it? So if you increase rim width by an inch AND lower offset by -25mm the effect on track width increase is going to be 75mm which is 25mm over the engineering requirements here in NSW (unless the new rules allow greater than 50mm with sign off?)

Could the 75mm lift to clear the 35’s be done as a combination of 50mm (2”) lift + 1” extended bump stops and/or cutting or pumping of arches rather than go straight to 3” of spring lift?

Jitterbug – how long have you been running around on standard diffs for??

Has anyone dropped the transfer case down with a spacer kit to alleviate the driveline angle issue?

The standard offset on Defender rims (alloys) is +30mm, so -25mm will have you running in the spats with normal tyres...

ok thanks for that - i was off in my calc last night, increasing rim width by 1 inch (25mm) and decreasing offset by 25mm (pushing centreline of rim out to the flares by +12.5mm each side) only has a 50mm total impact on track

the saw tooth / steel wheel track is 1511mm so in NSW you can go 25mm more than that with out engineering sign off

standard track is 1486 on the normal alloys + 25mm = saw tooth/steel track + 25mm allowance works perfectly if i can find +5mm offset rims

To fit 35x12.5 16 tyres you will need rims with at least -20mm offset and you will need to adjust your lockstops.Anything less and your tyres will foul.Unless you purchase custom rims,most of the rims in this range are -25mm offset.
Also fitting 35x12.5 tyres they will foul on the body and if they don't,then your suspension isn't utilising its full compression.