Thread: Ignition chamber/barrel stuffed. new Puma

Mine occasionally is a little harder to get turning than normal.. I found if I turn the steering wheel onto full lock it generally works.. maybe that's all yours is too? (fingers crossed for you)..

Nope.

Today I had some difficulty getting the key out a few times.

Now it turns about 80% of the way and is blocked by something in the barrel

Thanks though


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Had a problem a few months back when it was hard to extract the key... squirted some CRC down the slot... worked a treat... other trick is a bit of wax on the key (did that the other day)... yonks ago you could get a thing called 'dry lube' ... fixed any squeak... don't know if they still make it... cheers nigs

I have had a similiar problem to Sue found out the same turn the steering wheel to full lock either way usually fixed it, also have had the ignition switch not return to the run position after starting and the starter remained engaged. sprayed it with WD 40 but still have to return to the run position by hand.

Might be a lube issue (might not) if it is DON'T use wet lubes.

Get some graphite powder instead (any auto shop or hardware) - wet lubes will just attract dust/grit in the long run...

x2 - graphite powder is best - don't use wet lube


Brett

x2 Graphite powder.

Originally Posted by p38arover

x2 Graphite powder.

NO! NO! - not in the ignition key lock anyway - (in door locks it's ok - if your motor car is so old it still has key locks in the doors - like mine do)

I have seen instances where over enthusiatic application of powdered graphite caused shorts in the ingition switch (blown fuses etc); a minimal amount of WD40 is OK (put it on the key prior to insertion - don't spray it into the lock).

If the subject switch is a similar design to the D1 the tumblers can burr and jam the barrel - there are threads on this site about DIY fixes and locksmiths don't usually overcharge for doing it either.