Reply With QuoteMine has a hard rev limiter that I can change on the fly. currently set at 5500 (V8). Great fun at the lights to rev it BAHHHHHHH-BA-BA-BA-BA-BA-BA.
No one suspects the 28 year old landrover to be making a noise like that
RoverLord
your feet are too small.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
Mine has a hard rev limiter that I can change on the fly. currently set at 5500 (V8). Great fun at the lights to rev it BAHHHHHHH-BA-BA-BA-BA-BA-BA.
No one suspects the 28 year old landrover to be making a noise like that
Master
You know what they say about small feet... oh wait that doesn't work in my favour in this instance.Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
ForumSage
SupporterQuite a bit of the time I change up at the speed that will still have the turbo making a useful contribution by the time I finally arrive in the next higher gear.So uphill with a headwind needs a few more revs.
I could probably work out what revs that would be, but as the speedo (like just about every other standard Defender) is out by 10%, it would involve calculations that I can't be bothered doing. If real Land Rovers (the ones with leaf springs) didn't have tachos, there is no reason why later ones should be fitted with a tacho.
I think the point I was trying to make was that often what has a significant influence on the upshift point is what the engine and turbo will be doing when you get into the next gear.
I'm sure you knew that. I was just trying to muddy the waters.
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
Master
Oh dear i hope people don't read this thread and think im clueless about how or when to upshift
I have no problem valve-bouncing a petrol engine at the limit but i doubt a diesel engine appreciates it as much!
*Goes for a drive to take note of rev limiter/speed achieved in each gear, just for sh*ts and giggles* not really
RoverLord
absoutely
Men with big feet have big socks.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
and jocks
Wizard
I'm not sure what you mean, but I double clutch whenever I'm going down into second gear due to the synchro's being shot. Been doing that for years and I have no issue getting it in without crunching - hell it's easier than the Mack
Master
I also double clutch more often than not in the Deefer but i do it in most cars out of habit.
Regarding the heel n toe reference there is a sweet spot in the rev range when down shifting which varies depending on the engine speed before the clutch is dipped. This can be done by ear and takes a lot of practice but if you set yourself up before a corner you can work out on the tacho roughly where this sweet spot is.
Say if i'm about to downshift under heavy braking (using my toes) i use my heel to bring the revs up to about 30% higher than whatever the current revs are under engine braking conditions.
Say if im at the end of a straight coming up to a corner at 6500RPM in 3rd and i want to brake and drop into 2nd gear before i accelerate out of the corner apex i will begin to brake with my toes until engine braking has reduced to say 4000RPM... then i will dip the clutch, bring the revs up with my heel to 5200RPM, then dip the clutch again and select 2nd... wait for the apex and accelerate out the other side of the corner.
If it is done quickly and accurately the syncro pretty much becomes redundant, as the layshaft speed has matched the output shaft speed... goes in like butter!
This can also be done with upshifts... although no need to look at the tach or anything just dip and release the clutch once, pause for X milliseconds and dip clutch and change gears, if it is timed right there should be little or no resistance when upchanging at any speed.
And if you aren't in a hurry, you can upshift with no clutch at all, that is always fun but its usually in the 1500-3000rpm range depending on the car.
Anyways this is a 4wd forum not a racing forum so never mind me got carried away
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