Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Battery disconnect

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    depends on how much your going to winch with it...

    Personally I'd want at least a 500A rating and not just a 10 second rating for the suzi and if you were going to winch at least the same as the batteries CCA if not higher.

    That switch would do the job in a suzi but I'd only expect it to last about 3 years. The TD25 towmotors have a 100ish amp constant 500ish 10 second and 1500 peak rated Isloator on them and they last 2-3 yeas and the starter only draws about 300A
    Its a tourer, so not planning a lot of winching, but if I'm going to the trouble of running decent cables for winch and the starter etc then definitely dont want to introduce a high resistance point in the form of a switch.

    I've got a 120Ah AGM that is 1000CCA, and an N70EX thats probably about 600CCA

    101Ron's plastic switches look good as they are nice and compact - and obviously a proven track record, but I'm concerned that they might not handle the higher starting current that the Isuzu draws.

    Hmmmm....

    Steve

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide, S.A.
    Posts
    164
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So you connect the switch on the positive cable, but if you have a clock in the landy you have to accept that it will be stopped when the red key is removed. Is that correct ?

    Or is there some clever way of bypassing the switch with enough juice to keep a clock running.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by kowari View Post
    So you connect the switch on the positive cable, but if you have a clock in the landy you have to accept that it will be stopped when the red key is removed. Is that correct ?

    Or is there some clever way of bypassing the switch with enough juice to keep a clock running.
    I'm sure there's a clever way to keep the clock running if you really wanted to, but for me the disconnect is an emergency shutoff (and maintenance disconnect). When its off I want EVERYTHING to be off.

    Steve

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide, S.A.
    Posts
    164
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    I'm sure there's a clever way to keep the clock running if you really wanted to, but for me the disconnect is an emergency shutoff (and maintenance disconnect). When its off I want EVERYTHING to be off.

    Steve

    yes I can appretiate that, I was thinking more along the lines of an anti-theft sort of thing where you might turn it off over a number of consecutive days etc. in areas that were remote and lawless (melbourn, sydney,perth....)

    I have seen those little doobrys that connect a battery into the clock circit, allowing you to remove the vehicle battery. I of course would remember the little 9v battery about 2 years later! but its an option I guess.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,665
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Check out Tigers11 website. They have quick disconnect main power cable on quite cheap (and a lot of other bargains!).

    Were low on some stocks when I was there earlier in the week so you may have to wait for next shipment.
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    OK - so I finally got my battery disconnect fitted. I used one of the plastic switches as recommended by Ron, and have fitted it in the earth leads to the batteries. Not the conventional way to do it, but was more convenient due to the way I've got my batteries and dual battery controller etc laid out.
    Same electrical effect - it breaks the main power circuit to the batteries.

    Being an Isuzu County the engine will keep running if I disconnect the batteries, as it needs power to run the EDIC motor to pull the shutoff lever on the injection pump.
    I accept that limitation - if the engine is running then turning the ignition off prior to the disconnect switch is all that's required.

    The question I have now, is will it fry my alternator if I DO switch off the battery disconnect with the engine running.
    I'm thinking of the scenario when SWMBO catches the camera strap on the disconnect key, or if it starts belching smoke from the dash while half way up a steep hill and I want to disconnect without killing the engine.

    Steve

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!