Methods of rust proofing? Thread?

Hey Lou, does the Tectyl 506 attract dirt like some of the other products spoken about.

Mick

Hi Cracka,

Can say that it does. I got the car very dirty 2 weekends ago and used the commercial jet wash at the drive through on the chassis and everything washed off. If anything it seemed to repel the mud as it washed of much easier on the treated sections than the untreated sections.

It feels waxy to the touch (like a candle), but definitely not tacky.

I'm not personally a fan of the organic type stuff (lanolin and fish oil), but that is honestly just personal preference and no reflection on the performance of those products. Most guys on here in fact prefer those two products.

I had my last 90 in the UK professionally wax-oiled and the protections was spectacular. I'm after something similar over here and the best I've found to date is the Tectyl product.

Denitrol definitely has a very good name in Europe, but it's technically a Naphta product (Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy naphthenic) which is the same as Tectyl 506 which is in turn widely available in Australia.

Cheers,

Lou

Spray raw Linseed oil and you will never have corrosion.
Put it in a spay gun with a long nozzle and saturate everything.
Linseed oil is natural and very cheap compared to chemicals on the market and will be far superior in its protection.
It will go off with a very hard near unmovable brownish tinge if you get in on the paint work. So for some some weeks after spraying keep the vehicle polished.

Thanks Lou, I hadn't really planned on doing anything but I know I should:p If I do go ahead, I don't want to use something that attracts everything and acts like fly paper. As long as it cleans up and as you said easier than the untreated sections this tectyl could be a goer.


Flipper, does the linseed dry completely or stay tacky.


Mick

Thanks, will look into the Tectyl 506 as it seems to be readily available, as you said, and is similar to Dinitrol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cracka

Thanks Lou, I hadn't really planned on doing anything but I know I should:p If I do go ahead, I don't want to use something that attracts everything and acts like fly paper. As long as it cleans up and as you said easier than the untreated sections this tectyl could be a goer.


Flipper, does the linseed dry completely or stay tacky.


Mick

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It sets off rock hard after a few weeks. It is very runny at first and will get into all seams, but sets like cement after a short time. I was told about this from an old timer and how they prevented cars from rusting using Linseed oil. I treat everything including my trailer with Linseed oil and there has never been a spot of rust and this being living on the coast. It is the ultimate in true protection!

Thanks Flipper, well it is another option. I'm assuming that it doesn't soften or run in hot weather.

Mick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cracka

Thanks Flipper, well it is another option. I'm assuming that it doesn't soften or run in hot weather.

Mick

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No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Flipper

No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

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Good onya Flipper thanks for that.

Mick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by modman

I use water based rust converters on used cars/projects then fish oil after its dry
First make sure all the dirt is washed out of the cavities- chassis, firewall, doors using a hose or high pressure lance squirting into chassis holes, door drains, front top hinge bolt holes. Strip door skins if necessary.
My 2 tricks are using a 'kero/parts washer' gun and spraying rust convertor into all cavities until it runs out( following the natural path of water)
Then once dry do the same with fish oil
Works really well in doors and the firewall
With used cars I even get a dish washing brush and the hose into cavities like doors on a Landy. The kero gun really sprays the oil up into the firewall cavities at 100psi:D
The cleaning isn't so important with new cars and fish oil doesn't stink like it used too
Dc

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Sounds like you've done a few rustproofing jobs....do you do it professionally or just when you need to on your own vehicles?
Cheers, Pickles.