Methods of rust proofing? Thread?

[jimb]

I read some suggestions about best DIY Rudy proofing but cannot find them searching the forum in phone (and computer is currently dead).

Any suggestions?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps'll=-21.060579,149.162388

[ScottyD]

Hi Jim,

I sprayed mine when it was new with Lanolin after much reading. You can get it from Supercheap in small spray bottles or they will order in 4L (or was it 5L) tins and it is a natural product. I used just under 5L for the whole underneath of the car and gave it a good few coats. Its not the worst stuff the work with, but makes for an interesting day. I used a spray gun on an air compressor to apply it. I also used another air tool, forget the name, but it was like a spray gun but had a long flexible hose on the end to get to hard to reach spots.

Its only been on there for about 9months but seems to be doing its job anyway. For the first few weeks the car had a lovely waxy smell too. Dirt sticks to it like you would not believe though, so don't expect to ever have a clean underside again. It makes the car look used anyway

Cheers,
Scott

[Jojo]

Don't know which thread you are referring to, but all my trucks are professionally treated with Dinitrol. You could do it yourself, but it's a messy affair. As for home made corrosion protection, linseed oil is highly recommended and often used by oldtimer enthusiasts and other afficionados. And completely natural, btw.
Cheers

[kangaroo]

Can you tell me where I can source Dinitrol in Aus? Cheers

[bell1975]

Can you tell me where I can source Dinitrol in Aus? Cheers

I can't find it at the moment but there was a thread in 2011 that dealt with rust proofing. If I find it tomorrow I'll link to it here for your reference.

I'll also send you a PM on Monday that has the details of where to get Dinitrol in Australia. I enquired about ordering some a couple of years back. I've found the emails the importer sent me. It might be useful to you.

[skc]

http://www.storkawd.com.au/products.asp?BrandID={CC19D778-70B2-4CF5-A292-201326CDAB3B}&Brand=Dinitrol

[bell1975]

This is the thread, well, only two posts, so it hardly qualifies as a thread from August 2011.

And the PM I'll send tomorrow has more details on the distributors, StorkAWD, as above. Hope this helps.

I found another mob that did the cavity wax option that is also recommended. Link here. Select Bilt-Hamber and then Dynax S50 and Dynax UB. These are available in Australia. I still have a can of the S50 in my shed that I was going to do the internal cavities in my Disco with....one day. IIRC it was approx $50-60 for the can. I can't remember what the UB stuff was worth. UB for underbody.

[modman]

I use water based rust converters on used cars/projects then fish oil after its dry
First make sure all the dirt is washed out of the cavities- chassis, firewall, doors using a hose or high pressure lance squirting into chassis holes, door drains, front top hinge bolt holes. Strip door skins if necessary.
My 2 tricks are using a 'kero/parts washer' gun and spraying rust convertor into all cavities until it runs out( following the natural path of water)
Then once dry do the same with fish oil
Works really well in doors and the firewall
With used cars I even get a dish washing brush and the hose into cavities like doors on a Landy. The kero gun really sprays the oil up into the firewall cavities at 100psi
The cleaning isn't so important with new cars and fish oil doesn't stink like it used too
Dc

[Loubrey]

Over here in the West I searched high and low to find someone who will do it professionally, but not much success. Our plant (construction machinery) manager pointed me towards Valvoline Tectyl 506 if you want to do DIY. It's a petroleum distillate based wax that is not biodegradable and will act as a "apply and forget" product.

Sold by Supacheap in not so cheap 400g cans or Blackwoods in the same 400g cans, 1 liter and 4 liter tins.

Valvoline Tectyl 506 Rust Preventative, 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia

Rust Prevention

And MSDS for those Worksafe minded:

http://www.msdsonline.com.au/blackwo...s/MainMenu.asp

I've so far only done sections on my chassis where I've attached accessories and the like and there is a clear difference in the treated and untreated sections.

It dries in a honey coloured lacquer/wax layer that's impact and pressure washer resistant.

Cheers,

Lou

[kangaroo]

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. Hard to choose which way to go but have read some good reports re Dinitrol so will have a go with that first.