Methods of rust proofing? Thread?

[HardCharger]

What about Couplertec? Isn't that supposed to stop rust too?

[jabber]

Found this thread pretty helpful too:
Defender2 - View topic - Corrosion Prevention Guide!

[bell1975]

What about Couplertec? Isn't that supposed to stop rust too?

Opinions vary as to the effectiveness of these devices.

My personal experience with them is on Toyota 79 series utes that live on Fraser Island, Qld.

I see evidence of corrosion in multiple places on these vehicles -and IIRC they are fitted with the 6 pad kits. These vehicles get washed down on a daily basis with clean water (underbody hose down for anything between 10-20 minutes and a weekly exterior wash with detergent). They are also given a 0km, 10 000km, 20 000km, 30 000km Tectyl 506 treatment. And to top it off they get a weekly spray (mostly underbody but also steel components of the alloy tray fitments) with Lanox MX6.

And they still rust.

I haven't got photos to hand but if I posted some of them you'd not believe that the electronic prevention systems are that effective - maybe in some environments but IME not when they live on an island surrounded by salt water.

[chook73]

No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

How does it go on surfaces that have already started rusting? Does it slow down/stop the rusting process or just stop new rust from starting?

[BilboBoggles]

I did some experiments with linseed oil vs Tectyl 506 vs Lanolin. I did not like the linseed oil as much because it went hard, and I found on a couple of surfaces it wrinkled up - which I did not like. I also found it quite hard to remove.

The Lanolin was not very good where road spray or road much abraded it off. It did not seem to last very long. But on inside panels it's very good.

The best for the outside was Tectyl 506 - it went on reasonably thick - gets a hard surface - but stays waxy and soft underneath. If it gets scratched or damaged the surrounding tectyl flows and fills the damage (according to the manual).. Best of all it can be removed with a hot wash or solvent.

The other rust proofer I use throughout the inside of the Defender is INOX MX3. This stuff is extremely good at seeping and it stays a liquid forever. I'm looking out now at my dirty 2003 Defender and I can see where the MX3 has seeped out of the doors and up the sides by a good 6 inches! So I know it's seeping into all the cracks and gaps in the doors. (I applied it last around Christmas time - about 6 months ago... I've done some tests with MX3 on some very thin sheet iron, and it seems to be very good at rust proofing. I've squirted that all over the inside of the bulkhead, inside the bulkhead, rear cappings, and inside the chassis.

One last trick I use to keep rust out of the floor area on my defenders. I bought some large 1/2kg packs of Silica gel on eBay. One pack under each floor mat keeps the floor area bone dry for a good month or so. Then 20 mins on the microwave on Defrost and its dried and ready to use again. (Just measure their weight when you get them, and microwave on low until it's back to that weight.)