Thread: Slack in the DRIVE train

not degrees millimeters. Rotate wheel till slack takent up and prop/diff flange moves. Then pick a point on the outside edge of the tyre and rotate wheel in other direction till prop starts to turn. wheel travel on rear is 30mm but on front it's more than double - shouldnt they be close to the same?

Originally Posted by fid-def

not degrees millimeters. Rotate wheel till slack takent up and prop/diff flange moves. Then pick a point on the outside edge of the tyre and rotate wheel in other direction till prop starts to turn. wheel travel on rear is 30mm but on front it's more than double - shouldnt they be close to the same?

Can't say I've actually measured mine, but I'd expect the front to have a bit more than the rear as there are extra splines (inner axle to CV) and the CV itself.
60mm on the front doesn't sound bad to me. Pretty sure mine would have at least that, and no clunk.
Have you driven it without the front propshaft yet?

Steve

steve i haven't had a chance yet but will pull the front prop out on Friday - really interested to see where the noise is coming from. If it's coming from the back and there's no real slack in the rear diff or half shafts, where else could it be - the A frame is all good new bushes and ball joint kit. I guess we'll see if the clunk is there. Still think it's up front in diff..... To be continued

Tonic you got it first time its the A frame ball joint. Mine is a Boge self leveler that I want to replace - I have a later model defender (for spares) without the sef leveler is this compatible and is the ball joint removable on that or is it a sealed unit

Boge self leveller is seperate to the ball joint, the one from the defender will be compatible but the actual ball joint is cheap to replace. The rear springs may need replacing if they are original spec to suit the load leveller though.

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

Boge self leveller is seperate to the ball joint, the one from the defender will be compatible but the actual ball joint is cheap to replace. The rear springs may need replacing if they are original spec to suit the load leveller though.

Thought I might remove the Boge as I'm pretty sure it doesn't work and go with the simpler A frame end piece with ball joint.

You can just remove the Boge unit and leave the rest of the brackets. They don't get in the way. I'm putting a working Boge back in mine when I get the money to upgrade shocks/springs etc.
if you do get rid of the Boge bits, can I please have them?

Hi Mark

I'll try to get time this weekend or next to pull the boge out. You're welcome to the unit. You ever get around North Sydney that's where I work.