Well I apologise to all for sounding like I know how to do a Salisbury.
I ate a bit of humble pie today. Seems its hard to tell the BSA's from those that know.
That said if you can sort thru the non applicable Jeep stuff there are some good tips here http://www.alljeep.com/tech/install/..._true_trac.htm
I did my Sals / Detroit TrueTrac today
Lesson 1 . I had a heck of a time getting that mother out, I had the diff spreader plus jack under the pumpkin to stress relieve it & would not come even with prybars.
I ended up using a load binder with the strap around the carrier & tow bar and winched took a fair bit of strain but It shot out like a missile.
I can't imagine they could have got it in with all that preload so I assume my housing is bent !!!
http://goingbush.com/landy/tt1.jpg
OK diff on the bench & measure up , compare measurements with new TrueTrac calculate & select shims. Fit shims & bearings .
Note to anyone fitting a truetrac , don't know about ARB , but once the bearing is on you CAN NOT get it off without wrecking it & the shims.
I advise you to buy a dana 60 set up kit ( honed out bearings ).
That way you can put the bearing on & pull off by hand to swap shims about.
Once you have your shim pack set use your real bearings.
Lesson 2, another stuff up, I had a seniors moment & mixed up the shim packs with too much on the CW side to avoid disaster I milled 0.5 mm off the outside of the left hand cup. Worked a treat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/04/681.jpg
Anyway its all good now, drives great , no noise no clunking & a lot less backlash that the open salisbury. on the uphill test track going 45 degrees across deep culverts the Traction Control used to click away as the front left & right rear wheel leave the ground - now it just keeps on going. sweet !!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/10/769.jpg

