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Thread: Choosing a Defender ?

  1. #21
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    Personally I'd start again,out with the rad,rodded or at that age replace,new viscous/belts/hoses,water pump and thermostat,don't think about it just do,timing belt/gears/tensioner and front cover,again don't argue just do,valve set,do the oil twice,run up 500K's and change again and again if you can see sludge looking down throught the filler cap,do all the fluids including the brake and clutch and check the rear PTO cover on the transfer to see if the splines are worn,from memory the upgraded gear came in '96.I'd pull the hubs and repack the bearings,seals etc.Spend the time and money now,it'll work out much cheaper. Pat

  2. #22
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    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Nice purchase DeanoH. I've got a 95 TDI in a Disco. I'm no mechanic and have learnt most things from the forums here (so I'm just giving back what I learnt!), but I reckon Pat is on the money for a TDI. I would add an Elring head gasket if it's done more than 200,000 since last one.

    I've done about half of all listed above (my TDI is low kms). I bought a few things off ebay (Eg. hose kits) and quite a lot from Karcraft in Sydney. They seem to have decent enough prices, decent postage prices to VIC and stock everything in genuine + aftermarket brands. They also have a price list (something like 100 pages) of just LR parts. I'd recommend getting a copy, even just for reference purposes. I can send you the last copy I received, but probably best to just email them and ask for the latest.

    Karcraft Australia Pty Ltd

    If you can wait a week or two, some stuff will be the cheapest buying from the UK. The major thing I bought from the UK was the timing belt kit that came with everything you need for the job (except for cam and crank seals if you change them as well - bought them local).

    Land Rover Spares and Parts Direct
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  3. #23
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Personally I'd start again,out with the rad,rodded or at that age replace,new viscous/belts/hoses,water pump and thermostat,don't think about it just do,timing belt/gears/tensioner and front cover,again don't argue just do,valve set,do the oil twice,run up 500K's and change again and again if you can see sludge looking down throught the filler cap,do all the fluids including the brake and clutch and check the rear PTO cover on the transfer to see if the splines are worn,from memory the upgraded gear came in '96.I'd pull the hubs and repack the bearings,seals etc.Spend the time and money now,it'll work out much cheaper. Pat
    Agreed. And while you're doing all that, don't forget the "P" gasket.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Thankyou everyone for your input.

    My first priority is roadworthy, and basic maintenance. To this end todays exercise was air, fuel and oil X2 filters. Drained the old oil, replaced filter and put through 2 lots of SAE30 with Wynns engine clean running each for 1 hour between changes. Finally filled up with the last of my Castrol RX Super with a new oil filter.

    Major Gerni exercise underneath, very messy. Turns out the oil leak was from a finger tight oil filter, easy fix. It was 'raining' lightly underneath, with a bit of sleuthing this was isolated to the plastic water 'header tank', tomorrows exercise will be to sort this out. Maybe a bit of 'plastic welding' with a soldering iron and a cable tie ?! No other leaks I could see, nipped up the sump bolts out of spite and that was it.

    I figure the vacuum pumps on the drivers side of the engine down low under the air cleaner? One thing I did notice (whilst looking for oil leaks) was a 'leak', just perceptible on the gasket or diaphragm on the cover of this 'appendage', will check my downloaded manual later. Maybe nipping up the cover retaining screws might make my brakes better? Another day.

    A further bit of good news, the previous owner was concerned that the steering box was knackered and would need (very expensive) replacement. I don't think this is the case (now that I've blown all the black gunk away). The drop arm lower ball joint is stuffed as is the adjacent upper panhard rod bush?. I reckon this will fix most of the steering slack.

    Re lighting, from a zero start, I've now got brake lights, instrument, tail and front parking lights. Headlight flash works but no low/high beam. Managed to repair the crappy headlight switch, what a POS. Might stick relays in tomorrow to do the job right. Reckon the dip switch will be the problem but will know more tomorrow.

    Thanks all

    Deano

  5. #25
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    Great ute, yep all 130s run an inner helper coil on the rear, it also looks like they have put some maxi drive flanges on the axles...
    Not only the flanges, according to the owner, axles as well.

    Deano

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