Thread: DeanoH's Defender

Did 200 Km today, up and down the highway with no problems.
Did manage to isolate a couple of oil leaks though (oil cooler hoses) so wasn't a total loss.
I'll put this 'problem' aside for now and concentrate on roadworthy. Nearly there, steering, suspension, lights all done just brakes to check, vacuum pump to overhaul and oil leaks to fix and should be there.
Then comes the 'optional' stuff, timing belt kit, hoses, belt etc.

Deano

I would be very surprised if the symptoms you listed were caused by a cracked head.
I would be more inclined to look for a split or not seated intercooler or turbo hose,or a soft intercooler hose that had sucked in(very common problem) or you just had a poor dose of fuel pass through the system,it doesn't take very much!!!Another thought is to check the fuel cutoff solenoid wire for a good connection,a poor connection can mean intermittent operation over bumpy roads,leading to what appears a lack of power,but is caused by rapid intermittent power connection to the fuel solenoid.

Originally Posted by LowRanger

I would be more inclined to look for a split or not seated intercooler or turbo hose,or a soft intercooler hose that had sucked in

This was my first thought. Sudden change in fuel / air mix will cause the smoke.

I hope you're right about the intercooler hoses, they look original. The right angle turbo outlet hose is very soft. I'll have a look at the fuel cut off solenoid tomorrow. I did think of this as (one of many possibilities) a potential culprit as the symptom is total loss of power with no accelerator response at all but havn't checked it yet. Is this a common fault ?
I wasn't game to stop when the 'fault' was occuring, I just wanted to get home and put it in the shed. Didn't think I'd make it for a while, fortunately it was 'downhill' all the way home, and definitely getting worse as time went on, another couple of K's or a bit of up hill and I reckon I would have been stuck.
The difference between the windy undulating dirt run and the highway run would be that the turbo, I guess, would be working harder on the 'country' run in which I didn't drive it hard but didn't molly coddle it either, had to be on top of things so as not to 'go off' the turbo.
Thanks for the support.

An unrelated question. The workshop manual and owner manual both specify ATF for the gearbox. I've a feeling that I've read somewhere (on this forum) that this specification has changed to something a bit 'stronger'. Is this right?

Deano

Originally Posted by DeanoH

An unrelated question. The workshop manual and owner manual both specify ATF for the gearbox. I've a feeling that I've read somewhere (on this forum) that this specification has changed to something a bit 'stronger'. Is this right?

Deano

Assuming it's an R380, yep there was a TSB at some point that recommended changing to MTF. I've run Penrite manual gear 70 in mine for a while now and I have no problems to report. It was the first time I changed the oil, so I have no idea what was in it before. Seems just as good. My understanding is ATF will provide smoother changes all around, however MTF is better for the life of the gearbox but can be difficult to shift when it's cold.

There was a poll on here about ATF vs MTF preference but I can't find it.... I believe results were about 50/50....of course! Plenty of thread on the discussion of ATF vs MTF...

Bloody hell !! , fair bit of a change from ATF to SAE 70. I would have thought say, Castrol Transmax M or maybe a monograde SAE 30.
I'll have a hunt for the thread but don't usually have much luck finding stuff this way.
Thanks
Deano

Gear oil 70 is not equal to engine oil 70 though... Different scale or something...

Searching forums is rubbish. Using google is way better. To search for only AULRO pages on google try, "site:aulro.com xxxx". It sure beats the built in forum search feature!

Found the thread and am now more confused than ever. Rick certainly seems to be on top of all things oil.

The short story seems to be

a/. sell the kids into slavery , and use the proceeds to buy Castrol Syntrans at a mind blowing $30+ per litre.
b/. sell only one child and use Penrite Sin Manual trans at around $15 per litre.
c/. use Nulon Smooth Shift 75w/85 at ? per litre.
or
d/. chase up my local garage who use Fuchs oil and get some Titan SuperGear 75w/85.

I replaced the Castrol EPX 85/90 in the Oka's Spicer gearbox with the Nulon some time ago and reckon it lives up to it's name 'smooth shift'. So might check this out. Got the original 4 litres for free so may be in for a shock.

Deano