nice piccies ...... all nice and clean under there, must have been serviced not so long back as springs still have blue paint on them
dont forget to grease your uni joints on both prop shafts whilst you're under there
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nice piccies ...... all nice and clean under there, must have been serviced not so long back as springs still have blue paint on them
dont forget to grease your uni joints on both prop shafts whilst you're under there
dont know why the paint would come off??? it isnt rubbing on anything and would be covered in dust pretty quick :confused:
all grease nipples are done every 5000km at engine oil change....done 1500km ago ;)
good work serg! :D
jc
Thanks JC,
a few Q's...why would it say to mark the prop shaft and drum for reassembly, before removing (in the Transfercase section)??? It does NOT state this anywhere in the Brake section of RAVE when telling to remove prop shaft :confused:
why would LR say to use sealant Part No. STC 3254 between transfer case mating face and brake backplate???
Marking the drum and shaft etc is preventative so LR customers can't come back and complain of a new vibration because the vehicle was reassembled differently I reckon. It is obviously important when working on shafts and especially centre bearing repairs, but to mark the drum etc on a constant 4x4 vehicle where the front and rear output shafts rotate at different rates constantly is a bit retentive. They still have weird vibes at times anyway, from all sorts of OTHER places.:(.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
Sealant, I have no idea why as I pull hundreds of these to bits and haven't noticed anything there except some of the backing plate paint left behind...
JC
Done, lucky I wasnt getting paid by the hour :D
a few things I found:
the hardest parts were the prop shaft nuts....note to self, make sure you have one rear wheel in the air (beginers mistake). Is it possible to get a socket on them??? The other bugger was compressing the wapped washers that go on the pin that locates the right hand shoe and the brake cable lever. You have to push on them to get the top flat washer and C clip on..
Soapy water/dishwashing liquard works well on the big rubber grommet/barb that passes through the heel board.
Make sure you have a spare M8x20 drum mounting bolt if yours isnt in good condition. I now know why it was finger tight.....as it was already flogged out a bit. When I went to torque it up to 25nm I didnt even get that before it stuffed it......now Mr Philps my tip did not cam out before fastner damage :mad:. Ill be interested to see what I can get from my local fastener shop.....
Drum adjustment was done as per RAVE: tighten adjuster bolt until you cant spin the drum by hand. Tigthen further to 25nm. Back off for 1.5 turns. check drum is free to rotate. All seemed ok, but I eneded up nipping the adjuster back up about half a turn at most.....Im about to take it for another short run and will see if drum is hot to touch.
If you have a 110 cab chassis, adjusting the hand lever end of cable is a POP....just take out center seat and center tranny cover, you can reach under and adjust with your hand while sitting in the drivers seat. I did this on my test hill.
Brake shoes look like the could be swapped L for R but I didnt in the end. It was the top left that was worn and you can only flip them one way, which would have put it top right......maybe I should have:confused:
Doing up the prop shaft, after I jacked said wheel up, I found lying on my back I could stop the wheel rotating with my right boot. This allowed me to do them up as tight as I could with my long ring spanner....
Prop shaft bolts = 9/16 (46nm)
Drum adjuster = 17mm (see procedure)
Drum mounting bolt = either #4 Philips or #4 Pozidriv (25nm)
Brake backing plate bolts = 15mm (72nm)
great info :)
you can get the socket for propshafts from here LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 PROPSHAFT TOOL 1/2" DRIVE | eBay I buy 90% of my stuff from these guys as very quick and efficient thus far
Id be interested to see one of those actually fitted on the nut insitu. I have some thin walled ring spanners and they could only go on in one postion....1 out of the 4 bolts is a tighter fit for the tool than the other. Must be the nature of the joint and its angle....
What is the method for removing the actual prop shaft bolts insitu? I can see the big cir clip on the output flange, but im thinking the flange needs to be reomoved to get this off. And from what I can tell you need to to remove the bolts :confused:
What is the pad thickness, when new, on the shoes for this transmisson brake?
I know this is an old thread - but it is a good one so I'm hoping I can exploit it to get some advice from the brains trust.
I have to replace the handbrake cable on my 1998 Defender. Uninformed (great name, wish I'd thought of it for myself!) commented earlier in the string that "The other bugger was compressing the wapped washers that go on the pin that locates the right hand shoe and the brake cable lever. You have to push on them to get the top flat washer and C clip on..". In this youtube video at 8:12 and 12:22 or therabouts (Transmission Brake Adjust or Replace? - The Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance - YouTube) the mechanic uses a tool to solve that problem (I think). Is that a standard tool one can buy or has the bloke cut down a socket to make it? Given that I'm not a great mechanic I'm happy to buy a special tool if it saves time and angst, so can anyone advise me on this please?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Michael
I agree that the retaining spring washers are difficult to deal with.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984V8110
It is strongly recommended that a Toledo 310256 - Brake Spring Compressor, or something similar be obtained to facilitate removal & replacement of these retainers. The tool is quite cheap ($18 approx), & be advised that trying to do the job with just pliers is very difficult & frustrating. If you have a swear jar & do NOT have this tool, at 50c a swear word you will go a long way to paying for the tool by the time you have finished the job!
Cheers,
Lionel