Thread: 98 110 Handbrake

Originally Posted by uninformed

Hey all, I just broke my handbrake on my 1998 110 Defender. Im guessing the cable has snapped??? The handle seems fine, still rachets up and down, the light still comes on and off (clearly only opperated by the handle, stupid design)...

so is there any chance that the drum brake is still engaged slightly?

when I get the chance, what should I be looking for?

If it is a cable, how hard a job to replace?

cheers

A bit of a pain, actually. i find it easier to remove the whole backing plate assembly and cable, pull it through sharply from under vehicle after you disconnect the clevis pin at the top, and spray some silicone spray around the rubber outer where it goes through the seat box.

thed hard bit is after fitting it all back up you then have to adjust the cable outer, from underneath and it is hard to reach

jc

thanks JC.

I have to diagonse first then fix 2nd. Will it be easier on a hoist or just on ground?

Originally Posted by uninformed

thanks JC.

I have to diagonse first then fix 2nd. Will it be easier on a hoist or just on ground?

more than likely it IS the cable, and yes a hoist is MUCH easier.

JC

thanks again JC,

when you say adjust the cable outer, do you mean adjust the drum brake in general for the new cable?

what type of screw head holds the drum on?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I leave in the dark and return home in the dark and my truck lives outside with trailer attached.....

any special tools I need?

if it is the cable, do i just replace the cable or is it good practice to replace anything else?

cheers

the cable outer is adjustable, with a stupid 'locknut' as the adjuster . Land Rover Defender Handbrake cable 94 Onwards STC1530 | eBay this is a bit hard to see, but this is the cable you have. the nut end is at the lever end, to adjust you have to get your arms above the transfer case, up under the seat box, or take the centre seat cover out etc.
the other end is self explanatory where it goes through the backing late onto the shoe lever. bit like a car drum brake set up actually.

fit the cable up at both ends first, adjust the drum end up so the shoes just touch, then adjust the cable outer to remove slack, enough until the shoes start to move and tighten the drum. then back off the shoes until they are not touching and all should be fine.

drum is held on by a lrge phillips head countersunk screw.

jc

so the hard bit is:

"slacken locknut and adjust cable to give the handbrake pawl two notches free movement on the rachet before being fully operational on the third notch (brake shoes are fully expanded against drum.)"

do you agree with the following method for adjusting drum:

Screw in and tighten adjuster bolt until brake drum will not rotate by hand.

Tighten adjuster bolt further to 25nm to ensure brake drum is locked

Slacken off adjuster bolt by 1.5 turns to give brake shoes running clearance.

Check that the drum is free to rotate.

btw im getting screwed on the cable....but then again Im pretty sure my mech is just putting a normal mark up on what he would buy it for....bugger I need it ASAP

Originally Posted by uninformed

so the hard bit is:

"slacken locknut and adjust cable to give the handbrake pawl two notches free movement on the rachet before being fully operational on the third notch (brake shoes are fully expanded against drum.)"

do you agree with the following method for adjusting drum:

Screw in and tighten adjuster bolt until brake drum will not rotate by hand.

Tighten adjuster bolt further to 25nm to ensure brake drum is locked

Slacken off adjuster bolt by 1.5 turns to give brake shoes running clearance.

Check that the drum is free to rotate.

btw im getting screwed on the cable....but then again Im pretty sure my mech is just putting a normal mark up on what he would buy it for....bugger I need it ASAP

that is for the early 200tdi and county model set up, a lot easier. your one will be the pain in the rear end adjuster up by the lever. take the centre cubby and cover out you will find it much easier.

yes the drum adjutment method is right, but you may need more than 1.5 turns off if the drum is warped.

jc

hmmmm, that was from my RAVE CD and in the 300tdi section. It is the part after setting/adjusting the drum. I have a cab/chassis so its a simple middle seat and pop the center cover.

how do I test for shoe/drum clearance by feel?