Thread: 98 110 Handbrake

You may want to make sure your output seal is not leaking or even weeping whilst you are there as the oil leaks into the hand brake drum.

Not trying to create extra work for you, just a looksie as they are are a pita to have to fix when it's not convenient.
If I am not mistaken it is p/n FRC7043

I think a main cause of this is leaving the handbrake on by mistake as the drum heats up the shaft.

Dont forget the piccies, as I got to service my hand brake later

Originally Posted by fesm_ndt

You may want to make sure your output seal is not leaking or even weeping whilst you are there as the oil leaks into the hand brake drum.

Not trying to create extra work for you, just a looksie as they are are a pita to have to fix when it's not convenient.
If I am not mistaken it is p/n FRC7043

I think a main cause of this is leaving the handbrake on by mistake as the drum heats up the shaft.

Dont forget the piccies, as I got to service my hand brake later

FTC4939 is the right one, it has superceded the FRC7043.
yes, agree any oil or stickiness on the shoes will drag and bind the drum. dust is good to see when dismantling these

jc

just had to duck down to Trade Tools to pic up a larger Phillips tip. Turned out I only had #3.... Now my little bolt was loose and the slot was flogged out...bloody ****s me, if its flogged out replace it!!

can any one confirm if it is actually a Pozidrive and not Philips? I can sort of see the 4 extra small slots at the junction of each main slot.....but as I said its flogged out.

Also im guessing #4 is the largest, no #5 available? If my local fastener supplier was open I would replace the bugger with a CSK hex drive bolt....

Just having a dig around the net and only definitave info is the size on all Models is M8 x 20

Some pages refer to cross tip (I guess phillips) and other flat tip. The photo on Rimmer Bros shows a flat tip type.

As they only hold the drum on the flange and the bolts take all the torque you could use whatever you like as long as its not a really cheap junk screw.

with pozidrive pros:
- from memory they have a deeper slot so are meant to have better grip on the screwdriver

pozidrive cons:
- a lot of people dont know the difference and again from memory the posidrive has a smaller angle on the tip. If you use a normal phillips it dont engage fully and strips the slots

Allen key ones would be nice as at least people can recognise it.

Anyway thanks for the update as I am using your progress to make a list for mine

Philips V Pozidriv

Pozidriv


Screws with the Pozidriv head.


The Pozidriv, sometimes misspelled Pozidrive, screw drive is an improved version of the Phillips screw drive. It is jointly patented by the Phillips Screw Company and American Screw Company. The name is thought to be an abbreviation of positive drive. Its advantage over Phillips drives is its decreased likelihood to cam out, which allows greater torque to be applied.[11][12][13] In [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ANSI[/ame] standards it is referred to as type IA.[14] It is very similar to, and essentially compatible with, the Supadriv screw drive.[15]
Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks.
The Pozidriv screwdriver and screws are also visually distinguishable from Phillips by the second set of radial indentations set 45 degrees from the cross recess. The manufacturing process for Pozidriv screwdrivers is slightly more complex. The Phillips driver has four simple slots cut out of it, whereas in the Pozidriv each slot is the result of two machining processes at right angles. The result of this is that the arms of the cross are parallel-sided with the Pozidriv, and tapered with the Phillips.
This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv screwdriver will slip out, provide a greater driving surface, and decrease wear.[11] The chief disadvantage of Pozidriv screws is that they are visually quite similar to Phillips, thus many people are unaware of the difference or do not own the correct drivers for them, and use incorrect screwdrivers. This results in difficulty with removing the screw and damage to the recess, rendering any subsequent use of a correct screwdriver unsatisfactory. Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, potentially damaging the screw head. The drive wings on a Pozidriv screwdriver will not fit a Phillips screw correctly, and are likely to slip or tear out the screw head.





Now from my experience as a carpenter, I see no advantage for Pozi over philips....most the time we are not dealing with a controled enviroment like factory assemebly where both are intended and most screws are made from poo so the pressure used, even on a hand screwdriver is enough to burr out the screw head....Im yet to use a #2 philips in a wood or gyprock and have the driver tip "cam" out and not damage the screw head....

The screw holding the drum on has a very shallow engagement for the philips/pozidriv, which ever it may be.....Now the other thing that could have happend is the opposite, that is the mechanic that last worked on it used a #4 pozidriv in an impact wrench and the drive tip "stamped" the extra 4 small slots in.......buggerd if I know.

M8 x 20 is good to know, atleast I can get one during the week without having drum off...haha

BTW maybe also have some propshaft bolts on stand by, mine arent in the best shape, but once again, sat arvo and im **** out of luck.

Are the brake shoes left and right handed....one has the leading edge worn more than the other. That is the right side is a uniform thickness, the left is the same thickness on the bottom as the right, but thiner up top. Im thinking if they are universal, to flip them and get some wear away from the tin spot????

I dont know about swapping the shoes around as from the piccies on this page I wouldn't have thought you could Guide to Defender Handbrake Shoe Renewal | Repair My Landrover

they only have a set part number no individual

note the screws on the webpage,,,,,, both different

cheers for that. Mine is a different set up, pics to follow. No internal piston, just cable operating cam/lever. Looking at his 2 different screws (mine only has 1mounting screw) his also looks like pozidriv....

got the whole lot off pretty easy. I dont know what LR are smoking but take JC's advise and remove the lot. I cant see how you can easily remove the cable from the brake part insitu....I had to strip it right down to get mine out. No worries wanted to give it all a good clean. Getting the cable off the lever was easy once the shoes were out the way, but pulling the whole lot through a bugger. The little metal collet doesnt want to retract by nature of its design. I ended up wrapping a zip tie around it to compress it so it would pull back through. Once it was half way I snipped the tie. No oil only dust, a good thing.


cable breakage


drum and backing plate/mechanisim off and ready for clean repair


cable tie trick