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Thread: 98 110 Steering box

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    Anothe inner guard modified! The return Hyd line only took about 1.5hrs to get out. Removing it at the steering box = easy, removing the chassis cross member clamps = easy, figuring out there is one more chassis clamp, finding it, cleaning 15 years of gunk off to get at it, realising that the nut is 10mm and the bolt head is 8mm, actually being able to get at it since it is under the turbo bottom hose and cast fitting into the intercooler = a huge pain in the............neck!!! clearly this is one of those things where they, in the factory, they paint the chassis, then install the steering hyd return line, then build the rest of the vehicle ontop of/around it.

    Im going to a hyd shop tomorrow to see what they can do for me. This hose/pipe set up doesnt look real field servicable.

    I made my 2 hyd pipe spanners:
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  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
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    I'd stay of the tools if I was you, your vehicle seems to end up worse off

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    yeah im sure im the first person to have a problem with the hi quality LR hyd return line....15 years old and moving it 5 inches out the way made it leak....

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    So anyway, since the return line was leaking from the steering box end, where the small 90 degree metal pipe is press fitted inside a length of rubber hose. The fitting/joint had failed. I took it to a hyd shop and had them look at it. It was recommened that I cut the fittings off and use hose clamps. Since it is only low pressure I figured it was ok. (would not be able to do this on the pressure/feed line) The hose at the resivour end is 12mm ID and the hose at the steering box end is 10mm. I picked up some new hose and clamps. See pics. I fitted it all up, still an absolute bugger to get it bolted to the chassis bracket. I also used some 10mm fuel line cut and split to put around both metal lines where they are clamped to the front crossmember. Filled the resevior up AGAIN and did the bleed.

    How much air/bubbles should come out? I did it in 4 stages.
    #1 ran the engine for 3 mins making sure the resevior wasnt dropping any more, then cracked the bleed nipple, wheels straight ahead.
    #2 turned the steering to right full lock and cracked bleed nipple.
    #3 turned the steering to left full lock and cracked bleed nipple.
    #4 straight ahead crack bleed nipple.

    each time fluid came out straight away and I didnt notice any bubbles. Its a bit hard to though with a socket over it...

    Took it for a quick drive and all seems ok. Definitly stiffer feel with no noticable play.







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