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Thread: Puma power stuttering

  1. #1
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    Puma power stuttering

    Hi Guys hopeing to get some advice.
    Over the last month or so I've been having a little drama with my 08 Puma defender.Every now and then it just seems to loose power or stutter several times.It did it again today. It seems to cut off and on and off and on as tho someone is turning the fuel or ignition off and on.Today i was driving along the highway at 105kmh and the power just seemed to cut off and on quite a number of times.By the time it came good again i was down to about 70kmh. Doesn't do it all the time but its done it to me now a couple of times and my wife a couple of times over the last few weeks.
    Would be grateful for any advice or help.
    Regards.
    Eck

  2. #2
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    I have a 2011 puma, now it's done 20000 ks, but up untill it went in for it's 10k service, I could pull up at the lights, and it would start running really roughly for a few seconds. Now if it did this at speed, I couldn't feel or hear it, but I decided not to leave it, and so told them. They ended up replacing the ECU, and the injectors.
    I'm guessing your out of warranty unless you've got extended, but I'd get it to a dealer to check at least.

    Chops

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    I have a 2011 puma, now it's done 20000 ks, but up untill it went in for it's 10k service, I could pull up at the lights, and it would start running really roughly for a few seconds. Now if it did this at speed, I couldn't feel or hear it, but I decided not to leave it, and so told them. They ended up replacing the ECU, and the injectors.
    I'm guessing your out of warranty unless you've got extended, but I'd get it to a dealer to check at least.

    Chops
    Thanks Chops.
    Think i may have to do this. trouble is its a 200km round trip.And yes it is out of warranty.
    Regards

    Eck

  4. #4
    scanfor Guest
    How's the electrical conductivity of the connection to the fuel-cut solenoid.
    I had similar problems (but with 300Tdi) - the spade connector was corroded.
    Cut it off and replaced it and the problem seems to have been solved (done 20,000km since with no recurrence).

  5. #5
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    Certainly sounds fuel related As a bit of a long shot you could try checking the connection for the cylinder head temperature sensor, (if this goes high the engine should go into a reduced power mode).

    Cheers,

    Tim

  6. #6
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    also while your doing checks I would be inclined to drain off some fuel from the fuel filter make sure you haven't got water in the fuel.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #7
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    like lou-lou () says above, check for contaminated fuel. do it asap.

    if your injectors need to be replaced out of warranty its gonna hurt

    jc

  8. #8
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    If you think there is water in the fuel or it is contaminated, change the filter asap. When you remove the housing look for signs of detritus and water being present. If it looks ok then move onto the tank breather pipe checking to see if it is blocked or if it has become kinked or trapped against the chassis.

    If you have a diagnostic tool check the rail pressure and boost pressure during these incidents. If you don't have one then unplug the MAP sensor and remove it being careful not to damage the rubber O ring. Clean the sensor head with a cleaning agent like carburetor cleaner. Also coat the sensor plug/harness plug in electrical contact cleaner to ensure a good signal return. (The MAP sensor is used for turbo boost).





    There was a LR tech bulletin on the turbo actuator control arm becoming corroded onto either the vane control arm or the modulator arm resulting in the modulator not being able to control boost through movement of the vane. Check that the arm feels loose on the ball joints and is not stiff. There is a bit of play in it which is a good sign, if it doesn't move in either of the arm joints then you need to clean them and re-grease them.





    On the Puma, the ECU inhibits the injector circuit when you switch off the ignition, so there is no stop solenoid on the fuel pump. The two electrical plugs on the pump are for the VCV (volume control valve) and the fuel temp sensor so please don't cut into them!

    If the CHT sensor was at fault then I would expect to see the engine revs drop with a lack of power for at least a few seconds as the heat dissipation would not be instant enough to cause your symptoms. When the CHT fails the ECU adopts a stored value of, IIRC, 88 degrees C, which would not inhibit revs or power. Though saying that, it would still be worth unplugging it and cleaning the plugs with electrical contact cleaner.





    Under the drivers seat there are some relays, if the main power relay was loose, bad connection through corrosion etc, it would cause the engine to cut out as the injector circuit draws quite a few amps when the engine is running. Pull the relays one at a time and if need be clean the prongs and refit them tightly, chances are this is your culprit. If everything there looks ok check the earth bonds are still intact.

    HTH Brian.

  9. #9
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    DPChip

    Hi,

    If you have a power up chip (DPChip) take it off.

    Cheers,

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    extremely helpful post Lorryman good stuff...

    and I haven' forgotten about your files I have downloaded them all just need to upload them again
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




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