The big issue with welding the hole down will be it will end up harder than your shock pins and you will start wearing the out - but its uick and easy and fixed for now!
I tells ya mr Toyota was onto something using a sleeved pin mount
change out the sleeve when the sleeve wears away - easy
Tojo guys who go after market dampers have the same problems as the landy in this post
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
for the washer welding repairs...
once you have the bottom washer welded on you need to grind the surface of the plate back to flat so the washer you're going to weld over the top is going to sit down level and correct. then you weld the outside of the top washer down, and clean up that weld.
The welding in this repair method primarily locates the washer in place so the shocky doesnt roam around inside the oversized hole. yes you will loose some thread lenght but typically theres enough length to get you out of trouble. The vertical restraint of the shocky is preformed by the compression of the body washers against the rest of the metal in the original bracket by the shocky pin and nut.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks