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Thread: Suspension bush life expectancy

  1. #1
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    Suspension bush life expectancy

    I know there are a lot of variables that would affect the service life of (genuine) rubber suspension bushes on a Defender, but would you change them at a specific kilometer interval, or wait until they are visibly degraded?

    I'm asking because my 110 is starting to get a bit rough on the open road, (ie not freeways etc). It has done 75k km's, mostly on paved roads, but it did get a hammering last August during my Simpson Desert trip.

    Thanks in advance,

    Tim

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    IME, bubber bushes (even OE) are not what they used to be. The original bushes in my 110 lasted >200k km. The original a-frame bushes are still in there at >400k km, with no measurable deterioration last I checked.

    I have swapped almost all bushes over to Super Pro, and expect them to last a longer than OEM rubber.

    [as discussed via PM, the very poor handling when you drove my 110 were due to a VERY loose trailing arm nut!]

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    Thanks Ben, I have already had to do an A-Frame ball joint, and I suspect that it needed changing at 50k km's. I'll have to keep the bushes Genuine LR for now because of the warranty, but I'll look into the Super Pro ones for the future.

    The 110 doesn't feel "sloppy" on the road, it just feels "nervous" over high speed highway bumps. Anyway the airbags are going in for the rear axle this weekend, but I don't want to mask another problem.

    All the bushes and fixings appear ok, and I'd inspected everything quite throughly in the process of discovering the A-Frame ball joint had movement in it.

    Cheers,

    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimNZ View Post
    Thanks Ben, I have already had to do an A-Frame ball joint, and I suspect that it needed changing at 50k km's. I'll have to keep the bushes Genuine LR for now because of the warranty, but I'll look into the Super Pro ones for the future.

    The 110 doesn't feel "sloppy" on the road, it just feels "nervous" over high speed highway bumps. Anyway the airbags are going in for the rear axle this weekend, but I don't want to mask another problem.

    All the bushes and fixings appear ok, and I'd inspected everything quite throughly in the process of discovering the A-Frame ball joint had movement in it.

    Cheers,

    Tim
    What you are describing sounds more like that uncontrolled floating feeling which is usually caused by worn shockies rather than bushes. Have they been replaced or do they have 75k on them?
    Last edited by the_preacher1973; 10th August 2012 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Spelling

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    Quote Originally Posted by the_preacher1973 View Post
    What you are describing sounds more like that untrolled floating feeling which is usually caused by worn shockies rather than bushes. Have they been replaced or do they have 75k on them?
    That's an interesting one. I'm in the process of changing all the bushes on my D1 to try tighten up the steering, but I'm also unsure how old my shockers are... I realise shocks aren't likely to be the cause, however front ones are potentially quite old. Rear ones are relatively new (15k), although they are LR brand and to be honest I don't have much confidence in their quality. Any comments as to the quality of LR shocks?

    /end hijack
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    For standard Shocks they were pretty good being vastly superior to anything the Japanese supplied on their coil sprung vehicles.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimNZ View Post
    ...




    The 110 doesn't feel "sloppy" on the road, it just feels "nervous" over high speed highway bumps.


    ...
    I would check swivels preload, then shocks and shock bushes.

    When I went from 235s to 255s (or 285s for a while). Handling at high speed improved significantly.

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    I've just replaced the trailing arm chassis mounts on my 130 and the difference this made to 'driveability' was amazing.
    New ones didn't just fix the throttle steer problems but made the Defy drive like a car. Seriously. I had always assumed the Defy had to be 'driven' because it was, well a Defender. Couldn't have been more wrong. Can now confidently steer one fingered and have a (loud) conversation at the same time. At $14 each the best 'bang for buck' money I've spent on the Defender.

    I'd also have a look at your shocker rubbers, when they wear can give you a floating unstable sort of feeling.

    Deano

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    I've just replaced the trailing arm chassis mounts on my 130 and the difference this made to 'driveability' was amazing.
    New ones didn't just fix the throttle steer problems but made the Defy drive like a car. Seriously. I had always assumed the Defy had to be 'driven' because it was, well a Defender. Couldn't have been more wrong. Can now confidently steer one fingered and have a (loud) conversation at the same time. At $14 each the best 'bang for buck' money I've spent on the Defender.

    I'd also have a look at your shocker rubbers, when they wear can give you a floating unstable sort of feeling.

    Deano
    Throttle steer almost invariably means free play on at least one of the lower link (trailing arm) bushes. Last time I had it was the one on the axle, but I have had problems with the chassis ones, although not since replacing the previous owner's red ones with genuine rubber.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Regardless of condition I'd replace all bushes/joints at 100K and do the swivel pre-load,the floating feeling sounds like shocks to me. Pat

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