Hi PJ, can't help you with specific advice but what has happened to make you need to remove everything?. I am sure someone will be along shortly with good information. 130man.
Hi Can some one direct me to a good post, thread or web site that will give a good blow by blow discription of removing my engine, gearbox and transfer box from my defender with airconditioning.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi PJ, can't help you with specific advice but what has happened to make you need to remove everything?. I am sure someone will be along shortly with good information. 130man.
if i was a good aulro citizen i would have taken photos of yanking my tired worn out 300 today
Its not rocket science just start pulling stuff off till it comes out :-)
I gave up after several beers and 3 or so hours with the donk on the crane ready to undo mounts and heave ho
Be methodical and keep track of stuff and bolts
It is relatively straight forward as you can easily remove the front grill and radiator support to gain acces
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
I keep track of all the nuts and bolts by having all the ones kept together that are from one area and I then stick the collection into a zip top sandwich bag, writing on it something like radiator mount bolts.
.
Our 130 fell fowl to LRs lack of care for new vehicle owners when they failed to contact owners and advise that the plastic exspansion tank on the radiator was faulty. When it failed and over heated the motor and we ordered a new one they then advised there was a new modified unit as the original ones were prone to failurea bit late then, hence we are doing a complete rebuild.
i jsut pulled my tdi 300 out about a month ago, i removed my bull bar and took the motor and gear box and transfer all in one hit but i did not have air con in my truck.
i hope this helped, it took me 16hrs all up to remove and put back to getter agian
Hi Muzza99, I was told by a LR mechanic that it was not possible to get it all out together, you did well. Was it for a rebuild? mine has done 350ks and plan to send the head and block for testing etc; and then rebuild with new parts myself. Knowing where to stop is the Q does the turbo, injector pump need doing at this many Ks, I plan to re race the GB and TRF and have a look
at the gears while I am in there. Peter

The fan hub is not a "special tool" its just a 32mm fan hub spanner - wont cost much used on Fords blah blah blah or just Vake one up out of some flat bar
On a defender by remoing the front grill and radiator and condensor you get so much more access that makes the job easy as pie - (even pulling the whole drive train as a unit as suggested) - If I can yank a 300 + R380 + LT230 from a disco1 as a unit and with the radiator support panel in - on a fender it will be a doddle
The cost of re-gassing the AC would be miniscule compared to the hassle and increased time of pulling the engine without disconnecting its components
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
i had a little man inside my block with a hammer, plus i drove the motor for 2 half years with no oil presure after i brought the truck and don't know if it had any when i got the truck. It came down too number 2 cam bearing sitting in the sump, so i got a motor out of truimp motors with a reco pump, turbo for 3300 delviered from SA. the way i got the hole thing out in one go was to remove the cross member under the transfer case to remove it from the truck as well, and the chain on the motor where the engine crane goes on to make sure it is close to the back of the motor becuase the if it is in the middle it will be over blance to the transfer case. I even left the stumpy stick on and unbolted the gear shift where it bolts to gether. i hope this has been any help if any qestion please do not hesitate to call me on 0428393293
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