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Thread: Tray Mounts

  1. #11
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    i havent eye balled later 130 tray crack issues but have seen photos
    On older 130 the general gist is if the tray is rigid (Steel) with 6 or more pick ups to the chassis well with big loads and bad roads you get chassis cracks at the weak point
    With less rigid trays (aluminium c channel) 4 pick up points the chassis is okay but the poxy front tray mount suffers. If these front tray mounts are beefed and the rear cross member used - hard bolting the al tray back on seems to aleviate the stress

    If you had a rigid tray, before modding for angled mounts, i would try this.
    At each chassis point uee a longer bolt, between tray and chassis insert a polyurethane bush approx 15mm in diameter with washers, on the underside of the chassis mount plate use a rubber bush with washers. So you still have thru bolting for some semblance of shear strength but as the chassis twists the rigid tray wont fight the twist. Rubber on the underside will be more flexible poly on top wont compress as badly with loads. ? ? ?

    Or make up a set of sprung mounts like the earth cruiser tray mounts on canter izuzu trucks

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  2. #12
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    Thanks Steve, I will try the bushes, forgot to mention mine is a single cab with a 9ft steel tray. I will take it back to the guys who built the body and see what their take on it is, if I'm not happy I will give it to a company that does my welding and machining. Its still under warranty, but landrover says its an issue with the body builder and the body builders say its a vehicle issue! Thanks for the advice.

  3. #13
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    btw I meant 15mm in thickness
    diameter would want to be up around 50mm I imagine

    The big chassis cracks I have seen in 130s have all been on really solidly built steel trays
    You know - the "bullet proof" ones!

    Chassis twists tray doesnt - something has to let go

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  4. #14
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    No worries I kinda figured 15mm was little small for a Dia.

    My tray is the "bullet proof" type.
    4mm x 100mm x 50mm RHS rails with 4x 4mm x 50mm angle cross members, then 2.5mm sheet deck + the outer rails
    I can only estimate around 300kg. based on the 4 blokes working to move it.

    It has six mounts. With one at the front and 2 @ 200mm apart at the rear above/ beside the fuel tank. Clearance holes only for the bolts.
    The six mounts without extra clearance definitely restrict the abilty to flex when needed.
    So maybe some lighter members to go in and an ally checker plate floor to lighten the dead weight while I'm sorting the mounts.

    I like the "Earth Cruiser" spring bolted idea also.

    Reading the latest posts, I realised I have the body mounts for a Disco sitting here complete with bushes and bolts that shouldnt have a problem allowing flex, lifting the tray an inch or so and having through bolts.
    I wont have six mount points now.

    The folded channel I ordered to repair the mounts is ready today so into some fab work tomorrow.
    Thanks all for the ideas, I reckon I can sort this now with a good result.

    cheers

  5. #15
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    Strangy your tray would flex far less than the two chassis rails I would imagine

    Disco body mounts will do the job pretty well I would think but the ones between tray and chassis may compress over time with loads

    I dont think I would go to the trouble of changing the deck - If you want a lighter rust proof tray then sort out a full Al one and sell the steely

    Fixing the mounts is certainly a good start anyway!

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #16
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    I spoke to the guys that did my tray today and they have basically said that the front tray mounts provided are unsuitable, and I'm carrying too much weight up the front of the vehicle! They have said it's not their issue, I'm positive that the mounts they used are only designed to hold up the rear floor in a dual cab vehicle, they are only about 2 mm steel, Tex screwed to the chassis with 3screws on each mount. I had the tray custom built and in the design it was clear that up the front of the tray was 2 under body toolboxes,2spares against the headboard, and a 500litre diesel tank, tray weight with empty boxes was 450kg, even with the diesel and tools on board I'm only 3100kg. front axle weight is also well short of it's gross, land rover have rightly said the mounts should not have been used by the tray builders, and that the vehicles use and weights is not an issue...very annoying for a 3yr old work ute..

  7. #17
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    Any chance of a photo of your damage Summiitt for a sticky beak?
    Sounds like your in one of those terrible "he said she said" situations!

    Perhaps if you are happy to share the photo details of your set up somone might be able to help?

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  8. #18
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    Oct 2011
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    photos

    Sorry for the delay, some photos of the cracked mount and the typical load on the front of the tray, my welding lads are attacking it next week with new mounts..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
    Expedition 130 Guest
    How about some photos of your new bracket when they are finished Summiitt, I have the same brackets on my tray although they are bolted to the chassis with three 8mm bolts not tech screws, I have had one cracked bracket fixed, when fully loaded I'm a bit heavier than you but not as much weight up the front of the tray.

    Greg

  10. #20
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    Will do, I suspect I have the same 3 8mm bolts....they look like, and are probably as effective as tex screws, my industrial engineers took one look at the mounts and laughed, they will build some new, bullet proof mounts...will post some photos when they are done

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