True Trac or Detroit Locker

I'm leaning strongly towards a Chinese knock-off of the ARB.......

What about E-lockers? Surely an electronic solenoid with a disengage spring would be a good idea?

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Originally Posted by lambrover

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For those with TC it is enough if you aren't interested in lifting wheels.
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NO its not, Im not interested in lifting wheels (Thats why I have a defender & not a Disco :)) TC is ok , but once youve driven with TC and truetracs you will have the hugest smile on your face :D, I would not swap the combination for anything.

ive had Difflocked Landys before but none felt as right as this The only thing I miss are the difflock knobs.

Without the Truetracs the TC was good but you really knew about it, I'd hate to think what all that pulsing is doing to the spider gears.

the only time you now know the tc is working is when you see the light come on, you dont even hear the pump anymore it works so seamlessly ,

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Originally Posted by LowRanger

Well lets just say that we disagree then;)
Lift a front wheel and see how much a Tru Trac or ATB helps:o
You must already be running aftermarket axles and C.V's if you aren't concerned about breaking them.
And where I go,I see a few vehicles with traction aids of various forms,and there really is NO comparison to full lockers,of whatever brand your loyalties lay in.

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Hey Wayne, now I have to test that out, over the next couple of days Im going to put the 110 up the ramp, I know how far it got before with TC & without truetracs.

I'll test it with TC off just to see if the Truetracs go any further than open diffs, Then I'll test it with TC on, my prediction it will go to the end of the ramp (if it dosent roll first), will ad results to the image below & repost here, (just have to make a new top for the ramp as I sold that orange part with my trailer.)

BTW , yes I do have MD rear axles & Flanges thanks to Prev Owner and Ive since added MD front flanges but only to eliminate backlash but the front axles & CV's are original.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

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Originally Posted by lambrover

Stop playing and just fit full manual lockers. You are spending close to the full thing any way so you may as well save that bit longer and have the real deal I think.

I fitted the rear up first and when I broke the front end I fitted the front locker.

Yes LSD's are good, in Nissan Patrols, but paying for one to be fitted to me is half way. If you lift the wheel of the ground you loose traction. Some have said well we aren't using your car for that extreme terrain well if the wheel is not coming of the ground then don't worry about traction aids at all and fit a winch.

For those with TC it is enough if you aren't interested in lifting wheels.

Some one asked or mentioned TC in reverse, I have been in a 110 Puma reversing on two wheels, the TC works in them pretty well.

Just my thoughts though.

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If you already have TC fitting ATB/Truetrac works everywhere,sand/snow/ice/dirt/grass etc,diff locks only work offroad,if I'm spending a grand plus I want bang for my buck. Pat

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Originally Posted by PAT303

If you already have TC fitting ATB/Truetrac works everywhere,sand/snow/ice/dirt/grass etc,diff locks only work offroad,if I'm spending a grand plus I want bang for my buck. Pat

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could not have said it better.

TC & True Tracs will get you through anywhere without you even really knowing there was a lack of traction , Sometimes you dont get time to think about wether you need the difflock or not & you might end up stuck, where the TC/TT combo got you through because you never lost any momentum at all.

Especially in Sand & Especially towing a Trailer

One of my favourite things about the ATB/Truetrac is you have improved traction and normal steering all the time, front lockers aren't terribly good with manouvering when engaged, pretty brutal on CVs in particular.

I think of my ATB as a poor-man's traction control that only works on one axle.

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Originally Posted by goingbush

Without the Truetracs the TC was good but you really knew about it, I'd hate to think what all that pulsing is doing to the spider gears.

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I can show you on mine that I pulled to fit the ATB

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Originally Posted by lambrover https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/768.jpg
Stop playing and just fit full manual lockers. You are spending close to the full thing any way so you may as well save that bit longer and have the real deal I think.

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Don't know where you're buying your lockers but I hve 2 ATB's for less than a grand.

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Originally Posted by Yorkie

but as you don't have tc then you may aswell just get the full detroit. i only paid $450 landed from the USA and $300 to have someone fit it.
positive traction in all conditions and hardly notice it around town. :)

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Yorkie who was the supplier?

Cheers

one good thing about a selectable locker is that you have something up your sleeve if you do get stuck, i.e. i only ever engage the front locker if i get stuck or start to struggle with the only the rear locker engaged. in all but one case its been my insurance policy i.e having one locker not engaged up my sleeve

this is one thing you guys with auto lockers do not have.....

I could be wrong but most of the bad press about ARB lockers is from guys that have never installed or used (kinda like mac v pc) them and their experience is based on cost.........

in saying that that the previous owner of my rig installed the twin arb lockers which have work faultlessly since they were install >10 years ago, if i was buying lockers now i would take some time to consider auto locker based due to the price but reckon i would save my pennies for selectable lockers

if your doing any decent amount of touring than its a good chance you need a decent compressor therefore i dont factor in the cost of the air commpressor for an ARB locker install

I have a winch. No matter what locker you have, stuck is stuck.