Thread: A-Frame Top Bolt Issue

in perfect practice yes. As long as you dont bottom out the thread before the correct torque is applied. You can take your bolts to a fastener shop and buy the same DIA and GRADE bolt in a longer shank. It will probably be to long, just cut off the extra thread with a hacksaw and file clean for nut fitment

Thanks uninformed.
I'll go to a bolt place sometime this week.
I probably should send the supplier a polite email to let them know about this issue, as it did come from a reputable rover parts supplier.

They will be the correct bolts you were supplied, that's just typical of a mass produced item.

If you want to, just do as Uninformed suggested, and FWIW I used to have to do the same thing with all the bolts on every open wheel race car I ever rebuilt/worked on that had a bolt through a clevis in double shear.

You would be hard pressed to find the correct length high tensile 7/16th UNF bolt IME, I have tried before. The thread does look like it has been 'filed' slightly on its OD, looks to be 'rounded' rather than sharp, that seems to be pretty much the same as all the others I have removed and inspected over the years. And that would be PLENTY


JC

had to google " double shear ", Learning something new everyday.

These new bolts don't have a Grade stamped on them.
The old ones are UNF Grade "S"

Originally Posted by justinc

You would be hard pressed to find the correct length high tensile 7/16th UNF bolt IME, I have tried before. The thread does look like it has been 'filed' slightly on its OD, looks to be 'rounded' rather than sharp, that seems to be pretty much the same as all the others I have removed and inspected over the years. And that would be PLENTY


JC

Mine are worn real bad, thread is totally gone, worn smooth.
Probably the cause of the clunking from the the rear, as the ball joint was near perfect, apart from the deteriorated boot

Originally Posted by justinc

You would be hard pressed to find the correct length high tensile 7/16th UNF bolt IME, I have tried before. The thread does look like it has been 'filed' slightly on its OD, looks to be 'rounded' rather than sharp, that seems to be pretty much the same as all the others I have removed and inspected over the years. And that would be PLENTY


JC

I think we're talking about the chassis end JC, the 19mm ones ?

and FWIW I really don't like industrial HT bolts somewhere like suspensions, most aren't nicely made and most available here come from a country where standards aren't rigidly adhered to, if at all.

Socket head cap screws from SPS Unbrako and Holo-Krome are generally are far better made to better tolerances with better heat treatment than the average hex headed bolt, or at least that's the way it was when i used to screw cars together.

Unfortunately the really good fasteners that are available in grip (unthreaded shank) length increments of 1/16" (aircraft hardware) are only available in Imperial sizes

Originally Posted by jboot51

had to google " double shear ", Learning something new everyday.

These new bolts don't have a Grade stamped on them.
The old ones are UNF Grade "S"

its only metric that have a numeric grade stamped on them...ie 8.8, 12.9 etc. UN bolts have "dash" indicators stamped onto the head.