Well as you have it apart then replace them
But if you want to put them back on and tighten them, then get your self ready to change them soon, and keep an eye on them.
 ChatterBox
					
					
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						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberPulled the front hubs off today and this is the front RHS outer wheel bearing.
An absolute mirror finish on the inner half of the cup and a matching wear pattern on the race.
Why is it so ?and should I replace it ?
The wheel bearing was loose but not excessively so, the outer lock nut was very loose, wouldn't even call it hand tight. The only thing that held it on was the tab washer. Very thankful it wasn't the LHS.
Deano
Well as you have it apart then replace them
But if you want to put them back on and tighten them, then get your self ready to change them soon, and keep an eye on them.
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
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Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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						SubscriberThanks Dave
Just a thought. The inner and outer bearings are the same (unlike most vehicles). Usually you don't have to worry about keeping the inner and outer races separate as they're different sizes. 'What if', the inner and outer races were inadvertantly swapped at a previous bearing grease ?
Might be the answer ? or is this wear pattern common with a loose bearing, though I've never seen one like this before.
Deano
As Taper roller bearings are adjustable unlike cars that have roller bearings that are just torqued up then I wouldn't have thought it mattered if they had been swapped, I think poor adjustment is more the problem.
Its a real shame Land Rover decided to go from an adjuster nut and locknut set up to shims, makes it a real pain in the arse getting the right shims now.
swapping them inside the hub doesnt matter so long as you swap the shells over at the same time (if you ever watch me servicing hubs I do them one at a time and ziptie the hub seal to the inner bearing so you can not mistake them)
swapping bearings in races is always a bad plan once the bearings have been used.
If they were that far out of adjustment that the bearings were running where indicated youd have eaten the brakes, fretted or snapped the axle at the splines, swarfed the bearing and had the worst wheel wobble you could imagine.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						I'd be suspecting a damaged roller and would definitely replace both bearings due to expected grease contamination.
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						SubscriberThanks all. I'm giving both bearings (inner and outer) the flick. The other wheels (so far) have been fine.
I've serviced/replaced a lot of wheel bearings but never seen a cup this 'shiny' before.
Deano
One out all out, fit with new seals and while you are at it make sure the breather bolt hasn't corroded inside it self .
Keep the good ones as spares and do as Dave said by zip tying the cup and it's matching cone together.
With the new bearings then serviced with fresh grease and a adjustment after fitting new hub seals, done every time you change the brake pads, how long would you expect them to last?
My guess is about 200,000 kilometres.
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