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Thread: Kick panels?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Bracken Ridge, Qld
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    Kick panels?

    I mean the panels at the front of the foot wells.

    Mine are as rusty as buggery. Are these available? What are my options?

    Also if I was to source a set how would I run the accelerator cable and bonnet release cable through?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Yeah they are

    http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lan...ll-lhd-os.html

    But if they are rusty I would check the rest of your bulkhead. More so where it bolts to the chassis and around the vents and door hinges.

    Ali
    95 300 Tdi Defender 90
    99 300 Tdi Defender 110
    92 Discovery 200tdi
    50 Series 1 80
    50 Series 1 80


    www.reads4x4.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Manly West, Brisbane
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    Hi there Vlad,
    How did you go with the kickboards. I have the same problem which i need to address very soon. Would very interested in seeing how you went.
    Mark

  4. #4
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    Aug 2012
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    Logan,Queensland
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    Famous Four - Part Information for FF006086 - Footwell Repair Section - 90/110 and Defender

    If this is what you are talking about, I'll take one aswell.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Mine looked like this:



    Which meant grinding off the spot welds that hold them to the firewall, being careful not to grind right through the second (firewall) piece. I had multiple holes in the main firewall underneath the plates on both sides which I repaired (unfortunately no pics sorry), and then just made my own plates out of thicker 1.6mm steel using the old pieces as a guide, tracing where possible. I didn't bother welding them back in because there are enough bolts and screws through the firewall that they are held in place; with the bonus being that they can be removed perhaps once every few years for corrosion checks.

    You'll need to disconnect the accelerator and bonnet cables in the engine bay and feed them back through once the new plate is in. Unfortunately this is a bit of a mission in the case to the bonnet release as you'll need to remove the grill to get to it, and then feed it all the way back; not hard, just time consuming. If you have the factory air conditioning (as I know Vlad does), it won't be possible to remove the left side plate without first removing the complete evaporator unit from under the dash. The three holes you can see in the above pic are for the two gas lines and the water drain. With perishing rubber grommets, these holes are fantastic places for water to enter and start the rusting process

    James.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Logan,Queensland
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    Out of curiosity I've sent them an email for a delivery quote for the footwell repair section.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    Famous Four - Part Information for FF006086 - Footwell Repair Section - 90/110 and Defender

    If this is what you are talking about, I'll take one aswell.
    Sorry - just looked at this link. This looks like just the "outer" section without the inner foot plate. To install that you'd be cutting out the entire bottom of the firewall and welding in the replacement section.

    It looks like Famous Four only has these, which are the bottom sections of the plates.


    James.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Logan,Queensland
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    I think your right on that one.
    Is the double skin really needed, that's where the moisture is getting trapped. Very common problem caused by poor design.
    When they reply with a price, I'll post it up anyway.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    I think your right on that one.
    Is the double skin really needed, that's where the moisture is getting trapped. Very common problem caused by poor design.
    When they reply with a price, I'll post it up anyway.
    It's probably not totally necessary but I guess Land Rover were erring on the side of caution. As with a lot of the steel bits on Land Rovers, if they were painted properly there wouldn't be an issue, but how you paint both pieces either side, and then weld together without burning at least some paint off....... This is one of the reasons I just bolted mine back together (and siliconed around the nuts on the outside).

    I think I do have some more pics at home so I'll see if I can dig them out .


    James.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by rainman View Post
    Mine looked like this:



    Which meant grinding off the spot welds that hold them to the firewall, being careful not to grind right through the second (firewall) piece. I had multiple holes in the main firewall underneath the plates on both sides which I repaired (unfortunately no pics sorry), and then just made my own plates out of thicker 1.6mm steel using the old pieces as a guide, tracing where possible. I didn't bother welding them back in because there are enough bolts and screws through the firewall that they are held in place; with the bonus being that they can be removed perhaps once every few years for corrosion checks.

    You'll need to disconnect the accelerator and bonnet cables in the engine bay and feed them back through once the new plate is in. Unfortunately this is a bit of a mission in the case to the bonnet release as you'll need to remove the grill to get to it, and then feed it all the way back; not hard, just time consuming. If you have the factory air conditioning (as I know Vlad does), it won't be possible to remove the left side plate without first removing the complete evaporator unit from under the dash. The three holes you can see in the above pic are for the two gas lines and the water drain. With perishing rubber grommets, these holes are fantastic places for water to enter and start the rusting process

    James.
    Far out ! Too hard basket for the moment....
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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