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Thread: Sluggish/no start diagnosis

  1. 26th September 2012, 07:33 PM #11
    justinc's Avatar
    justinc
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    Alternator should see at least 13.6V and up to 14.4V at idle with a Tdi. What happens when you hold the revs at say 2000rpm?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
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  2. 26th September 2012, 08:13 PM #12
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    eddiec
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Alternator should see at least 13.6V and up to 14.4V at idle with a Tdi. What happens when you hold the revs at say 2000rpm?

    JC
    With a bit of throttle it was reading up to 14V (no tacho so I can't be precise)
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  3. 26th September 2012, 08:37 PM #13
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    roverrescue
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    My guess,
    One of your other two "secondary" batts has a dropped cell or other issue.
    Once engine starts it pretty quickly gets up to the switch over voltage of the traxide.
    Current will then flow from good batt to dying/dead battery and evaporate as heat.
    Slowly pulling the "good" starter down each start/stop cycle.

    Just for giggles disconnect the two secondary batts for a week or so and run with a single good starter and see what happens.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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  4. 26th September 2012, 08:46 PM #14
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    eddiec
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    Thanks - that's another worth exploring. Although I'll be ****ed if that's the problem, as the secondary/tertiary batteries were expensive AGMs and are only 4-5 years old...
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  5. 26th September 2012, 08:52 PM #15
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    roverrescue
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    My guess stands even stronger then

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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  6. 26th September 2012, 09:45 PM #16
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    camel_landy
    camel_landy is offline YarnMaster
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    Yeah, I'm with 'roverrescue' on this.

    FWIW - I don't bother with 'fancy' batteries any more. I've tried Optima & Oddessey and found them to be .

    I've gone back to lead-acid these days.

    M
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  7. 26th September 2012, 11:13 PM #17
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    roverrescue
    roverrescue is offline YarnMaster Supporter
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    Agreed with camel...
    and with regards to "fancy dual battery systems"

    0 B&S between the positives and a use a voltmeter

    When the voltage gets low do something
    Better for winching and as long as you use your brain less hassles.

    If per se your problem is a dropped cell in one of the secondary batteries... had you just a linked system you would have noticed a slight decline in overall system voltage performance as the dropped cell has a consistent effect on all three batteries at all times... I can almost guarantee it wouldn't leave you with a 'no starty' unless you allowed it.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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