Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Front diff flange - should I replace this?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,545
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Front diff flange - should I replace this?

    Doing a front pinion seal and just inspecting the diff flange. Would you replace this? I think I should just so I know it's done and it's only $40. Is there a rule for this type of thing? The grooves don't "look" too bad.




  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0
    don't replace - just fix...

    speedisleeves are your friend

    Speedi-Sleeve shaft repair kits

    (from your local friendly bearing shop)

    and, when done, it will be better than new

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,484
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Chances are the seal was ok and it was leaking round those grooves!

    You can sometimes get away without replacing the flange by simply not pushing the deal all the way home, this overtime creating another groove!

    I have no experience with speedisleeves.

    R
    J

    Sent using Forum Runner
    Regards,
    Jon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had one polished that had been worse. Only a few thou removed so standard seal was fine.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You can also pull the spring off and separate and cut it shorter a few mm and rejoin.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,827
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Pics dont look too bad, can you catch or feel you fingure nail in them?
    From the pic I would use some 1200 wet and dry and quick polish and refit. Seen much worse refitted.

    You can also pull the spring off and separate and cut it shorter a few mm and rejoin
    DONT do this.

    cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Tumbi Umbi, Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    5,768
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon View Post
    You can sometimes get away without replacing the flange by simply not pushing the deal all the way home, this overtime creating another groove!
    About 100,000 km ago I replaced the rear pinion seal on a flange with deeper grooves than that. I cut a couple of gaskets to go behind the seal so that it ran on a part of the flange that had never been used.

    It leaked briefly a few years later when the diff breather became blocked, but stopped again immediately when I cleaned the breather.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes, it looks fine but try and position the new seal in a different spot, hard I know but you may be able to jag it.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've been doing it for 20+ years...

    Why not ? Especially with a multi-lipped seal.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,827
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    I've been doing it for 20+ years...

    Why not ? Especially with a multi-lipped seal.
    It's a cover up bodge job.
    Because the seal profile, contact area and pressure is altered. It will make the damage worse, shorten the seal life and is just plain bodgey. It's the classic "spend hours but not a $" approach, which temporarily hides poor maintenance. Same as adding thicker oils to noisy old motors.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!