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Thread: Front diff flange - should I replace this?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Nanny state UK...
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    I'm with '87County', just get it re-sleved...

    M

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Yarrawonga, Vic
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    If you thought of replacing it with a "new only $40 " flange you'd be better off using the one you have as is, as the new one no doubt is Britpart, (or can't you say that word here)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Ipswich QLD.
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    As a general rule, if you can feel your finger nail catch when you scrape it across the seal surface, then it needs work. Either replace or sleeve it. A speedi sleeve will probably cost you more than the quoted $40 for a new flange. I was qoted $50 for a speedi sleeve a while back.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1968 SIIa SWB
    1978 SIII Game SWB
    2002 130 Crew Cab HCPU

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Tewantin (NOOSA area)
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    From the photos, the seal marks simply look like normal polishing of the shaft by the seal.

    If you cannot feel anything, with a finger nail and/or you cant see anything with a 3x glass then it is probably OK. Alternatively lay the edge of a 6" rule across it [or the straight edge of a feeler gauge] (with you in the shade and look out into the sunlight) and if you can't see any deep groove it will be OK. Gitts seals can easily absorb a few thou.

    RF

  5. #15
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    May 2007
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    Australia
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    Off topic a little, just re read my post re Clubagreenie and it reads like I am having a go at you.
    Sorry not intended at you personally, too late to edit the response.

  6. #16
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    Jan 1970
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks guys, I ended up reusing it. There was nothing really I could feel with my nails and it looked just cosmetic. I did what Justin suggested and tried seating the seal in a different place, so it's a couple of mm out from where it was so should be running on a different part of the flange. No leaks yet in my 5km test drive, we'll see how it goes.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    It's ok.

    I usually do it on 3 lipped seals when the spring is between lips on a flat area. It actually flattens out the seal and makes a wider flat area. Similar to other harder rotary seals for higher pressure hydraulic applications that don't cope with the high speed rotation of the hubs but do cope with pressure due to surface area/pressure behind the seal area.

    You have to pick the right seal though, I should have clarified earlier.

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