Thread: 130 defender steering problem

If the alignment is all correct.......and there's no play in the swivel hubs......or worn bushes......or wheel pressures........

try swapping the front wheels left to right and see if that helps.......

also.....measure the height on all four corners....with the vehicle on level ground...measure the distance from the bottom edge of the wheel arch down to the bottom edge of the rim......

You may have a spring with too much sag in it.....if this is the case.....then swapping the springs left to right may help correct the problem......
If it does help.....it would be best to replace the springs with some slightly stronger ones to cope with the extra weight........


Defenders are known for a symptom called.....defender droop.....

It might also be worth checking the alignment of the rear axle, together with the condition of the bushes.

As for the winch & bar, with the extra weight up front & forward of the front springs, it might be worth changing the springs for the Heavy Duty versions.

M

carves, mine did the same. Tried all the fixes below and still the same. I have been told the caster in the steering geometry is made for driving on the other side of the road, to cater for the roads camber. Not sure if that is correct or just another excuse.

In the end I took it to a truck suspension place that does caster correction. It's a bit brutal, but they start buy putting the alignment tools on the front wheels, then sling a chain over the diff and start bending the long part of the axel housing. Did the trick and was only $140.
Drives very well now no pull at all, has done 40k since in all applications, varied weights and road surfaces. No baring failure, no oil leaks.

Hard to explain, but I see no reason LR cant make two diff housing the same, that cant make much else the same when it come to a Defender. This is the only reason I can come up with because some have it, others don't.
A mate with a TD5 who had his caster corrected 5 years ago also has had no issues.

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

also.....measure the height on all four corners....with the vehicle on level ground...measure the distance from the bottom edge of the wheel arch down to the bottom edge of the rim......
.

Keep in mind the right hand springs should be around 1cm longer than the left hand springs. Most cars have longer right springs to allow for driver weight.

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

...measure the distance from the bottom edge of the wheel arch down to the bottom edge of the rim...

It worries me when people use Defender build quality as a measuring tool.

Measure your wheelbase on both sides too.

Originally Posted by newhue

carves, mine did the same. Tried all the fixes below and still the same. I have been told the caster in the steering geometry is made for driving on the other side of the road, to cater for the roads camber. Not sure if that is correct or just another excuse.

In the end I took it to a truck suspension place that does caster correction. It's a bit brutal, but they start buy putting the alignment tools on the front wheels, then sling a chain over the diff and start bending the long part of the axel housing. Did the trick and was only $140.
Drives very well now no pull at all, has done 40k since in all applications, varied weights and road surfaces. No baring failure, no oil leaks.

Hard to explain, but I see no reason LR cant make two diff housing the same, that cant make much else the same when it come to a Defender. This is the only reason I can come up with because some have it, others don't.
A mate with a TD5 who had his caster corrected 5 years ago also has had no issues.

Interesting Jason, I have seen this with camber correction in strut type suspension, but not live axles before

Perhaps anyone else contemplating this fix, should also consider the less 'brutal' part by slotting the swivel housings, adjusting and then locking. A bit more expensive but a bit less 'twisty'

Still, bending/ twisting is an industry recognised practise, and it works


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Interesting Jason, I have seen this with camber correction in strut type suspension, but not live axles before

Perhaps anyone else contemplating this fix, should also consider the less 'brutal' part by slotting the swivel housings, adjusting and then locking. A bit more expensive but a bit less 'twisty'

Still, bending/ twisting is an industry recognised practise, and it works

JC

JC, I think he has camber and caster confused myself.

For the OP

Bending a housing will change camber. Camber will effect you steering and tyre wear, but it is usually not a problem unless you have bounced your truck up rocky hills. I bent my front housing in my Isuzu county rock crawling.

Do you have a print out off the alignment.

I bet the wheel alignment was only a 2 wheel not 4 wheel. As some one has already suggested you need to make sure the rear axle is aligned correctly. It's called the thrust line and if its not square to the vehicles center line it will push the vehicle around. Have a good look at all the bushes in your control arms front and rear.

I have forgot whilst writing this if you have a lift or not. If you do your caster could be out.