Reply With Quotesounds more like universal joints to me.
if your rear wheel bearings are that cactus you should be able to hear and feel a clunk if you grab the top of a rear wheel and try to shake the whole car.
Master
When I travel down a smooth road , yes they do exist in Sydney , at around 110 /120 kph I can hear a drumming rumble in the back, it’s a slow drumming at around 4 drums per second .
I’m thinking its wheel bearings, the truck has 90k’s on it now and I would say it’s done some mud work prior to my acquisition looking at the red mud in spots under the truck.
When I’m going slow, I can just feel the drumming rumble ever so slightly.
ForumSage
sounds more like universal joints to me.
if your rear wheel bearings are that cactus you should be able to hear and feel a clunk if you grab the top of a rear wheel and try to shake the whole car.
Wizard
If it turns out to be your wheel bearings, while its apart, do the conversion to oil lubricated bearings
Very simple to convert and way way better.
Master
Originally Posted by goingbush
Just replaced the uni's 400km ago , I haven't jacked it up to check the wheel bearings ,Il check it in the morning .
Master
Whats the conversion , do you have any info ?If it turns out to be your wheel bearings, while its apart, do the conversion to oil lubricated bearings
Very simple to convert and way way better.
Also did you do a straight throught exhaust on your Puma eg: cat and mid mufler removal , Im about to do mine ?
Moderator
Pull the axle tube seals and use RTC3511 hub seals.
Solves the problems of axle spline fretting and water contamination in one hit. (the earlier type seal is also a superior design)
Wizard
1/ TDCI's wheel bearing are grease lubricated. To convert to oil you need to remove the inner axel tube seal. Pull the wheels off, hub off, axel out and that's where you will them. As well as the new hub seals(as provided by Rick130), You will also need a new set of heavy duty drive flanges. These have a large nut with an "o" ring rather than that rubber cap, required to prevent the diff oil from leaching out.
Fronts are bit bigger job, you need to remove everything back to the CV's, behind the CV joint is where you will find the axel tube seal. Then it all the same as the rears.
2/ I have removed my cat and centre muffler, both replaced with stainless steel replacements from TerraFirma. Cat removal is a PIA, to get it out in one piece you need to remove the front prop and chassis cross member. When you fit the new decat pipe you will need to knock up a set of brackets to hold the heat shields.
Have fun turning those spanners
Wizard
Oh, while you've got that decat pipe off, wrap it with ceramic wrap, worth while addition for heat management in the cabin and way easier while its off.
Master
So today I checked the wheel bearings all good there no movement and smooth running , while I was there I decided to rotate the front prop shaft yoke around 1 spline , taking the front DBL cardan shaft out of phase , well guess what ! It’s now better.
The noise is still there allot less and at lower speed now, I’m going to rotate it one more spline tomorrow which will take it to about 45 degrees out od phase to standard position mentioned in another one of threads.
I installed the shaft just like it was sent to me by Tom Wood, I guess he’s not catering for the phasing of the shaft on his assembly.
ForumSage
I'd have thought the Double Cardin shaft should be fitted in phase, as it was supplied.
At leasy you seem to have narrowed it down to a shaft issue, what I'd be doing now is completely remove the front shaft, engage CDL & take it for a drive.
See if the vibes are gone.
Ditto the rear
then you know exactly where your at.
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