FIP ING HELL!! - Tdi Fuel Injector Pump Leak

nahh all good, the res and focus of the pics isnt helping but it does look like the receiver plate on the flyweight balancer is bent.


heres how it all hooks up...
Attachment 53639

usually when I've pulled them apart the shaft has fallen out of the cover allowing dis assembly.

on the re-assembly I load the thing up with a healthy dose of Vaseline to hold it all in place and to keep the shaft upright enough to get it started in the sleeve.

Dont forget to wipe down the new top cover seal with a little clean diesel prior to installing it and to dry off and clean the sealing surface.

Thanks Dave for the tech support :)

I didn't notice anything bent, looks OK to me so hopefully it will go back on OK. I'll try and take a better round of pictures when I get back to it with the replacement seals.

Your picture is low rez so I cant quite make out the attachment but I'll see what I can figure out when the time comes.

I'm going to take the cover and spindle to the diesel shop when I pick up the seals, the spindle does not look worn to me but I'll get a second opinion. Also with a bit of luck they may be able to replace the bush for me there and then.

Matt

Just as a little side here...

Did the car get run on Bio or veg oil when in the UK?? FWIW - I've seen that as the cause of leaks in injector pumps.

Good luck.

M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Just as a little side here...

Did the car get run on Bio or veg oil when in the UK?? FWIW - I've seen that as the cause of leaks in injector pumps.

Good luck.

M

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I have not experimented with bio. But quite possibly the previous owner may have. The brown rusty colour of the pumps internals shown in the pictures suggests that water has passed through it, so it has had some bad fuel, maybe it was cause by poorly filtered bio. It rubs off pretty much, like a thin film, so not major - i hope.

I looked today for a sedimentor on the fuel pick up but nothing found. So some kind of water separator is now the list of things to do.

Also whilst looking in vain for the sedimentor, I found the bottom of my fuel tank weeping. So I have a leaky tank to deal with too!:wallbash::toilet:

progress is being made after some time off.

I got the seals and bush from MTQ in Dandenong. They were very helpful. I now have the top of the pump back on with the spindle poking through but stopped there because I don't have access to my reference photos with measurements etc.

One tip for anyone looking to do this. Put the new seal on the spindle, wet it with some diesel and push it through the bush in the top cover once or twice before you try to do it with the spindle arm connected to the pump. It will make it easier to push through when you do it in situ and you will know how much force to give it.

Also when the top threaded section of the spindle pokes out clear of the bush you can put a nut on it and gently pull it the rest of the way with some pliers whilst pushing the top down onto the pump.

I'm not sure how far the spindle is supposed to protrude out of the top cover, I stopped when the cover settled onto the pump. Should I pull it up until it locks, cant go any further?

Also is there a torque setting for the top cover bolts?

MTQ fitted the bush for me, and used some kind of loctite/sealant around the top outer diameter of the bush. So that was one thing I didn't have to worry about stuffing up :)

I think I finished the FIP this morning. Got my reference photos off my GF's phone so I could set all the screws and throttle back to position.

Started her up, it idled and I could apply throttle as normal. I couldn't run the engine for long because no coolant, but couldnt find any fuel leaks :). Spindle was leaking immediately on start up before, so its looking good.

Unfortunately I didnt have a camera to take pics but there were no surprises given the info in this thread and the linked lr4x4 thread.

The spindle needed to come all the way through the top cover til it couldn't go no more. I did the top cover bolts up as tight as is comfortable using a short allen key.

One thing that may help others is a method for getting the throttle spring back into position:

- After setting all the screws back to position place the spring along with the plastic spacers so that the bottom hook of the spring is in position (use a reference photo).

- Pull the top hook back and down slightly so that it catches on the pump body, this will hold the spring in place so you can but the throttle arm on.

- Before you put the arm on tie a bit of string onto the top hook of the spring.

- Line the arm up onto the spindle so it is in the correct position (from reference photo / marks)

- Put the nut on to hold the arm on the spindle, then pull on the string to bring the top hook of the spring all the way round and onto the throttle latch point. Makes it real easy.

Moving on with a :)

so now summate for us...

you were worried because?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

so now summate for us...

you were worried because?

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yes OK you were right - it wasn't so hard, and yes the initial post now seems a tad melodramatic... for 12 months now I've had the car in an unusable state - so I simply lost my patience and doomed it all to hell... poor form i know! Thanks for the push.

With renewed stoic resolve and a splash of optimism I will aim to have the front cover and ancillaries back on, add some coolant and go for a drive this weekend! :cool:

Anyone got a torque wrench setting for the top bolts?

Well I would like to thank manic/Blknight for there informative information and links in this thread. I had just done this myself just this weekend and with out the information on this thread would have been a otherwise difficult job and also having the part numbers made it even easier.

I was very nervous when putting it all back together, but would like to inform that the old girl fired up without hitch and so far is not leaking diesel. This seal was just replaced 70k ago when I had the pump overhauled and I was very disappointed when it started leaking 2 weeks ago. When I was told it could cost up to $600 and there was a 3 week wait to get the car into the mechanic, well that's when I started researching on the old AULRO and found this thread. So instead of being a few hundred, it cost me $30 bucks in parts $20 bucks to the local mechanic to replace the bush for me as I don't have a workshop press and about 5hrs of my time.