Thread: Radiators, intercoolers and exhaust wrapping

Bobby,

As others have said it shouldnt be overheating.

I'd start by removing the cowling and fan and get the garden sprinkler to the back of the rad for a few hours, my money would be on it still being partially blocked with mud.

If you can get the air con rad and intercollegiate out of the way all at the same time you should be able to see daylight right through it, everywhere!


I doubt the inter cooler will make any difference to cooling, or performance until you get a remap.


I've never played with exhaust wrap, but my first consideration would be to long term damage of the CAT and increased heat dissipation around the gearbox & transfer box (once the wrapping stops) just where you don't need extra heat! At least leaving the manifold & down pipe un-wrapped allows for heat dissipation via a greater air mass under the bonnet where its largely irrelevant.

Jon

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In an effort to reduce cabin heat, especially the front passenger seat and footwell, I wrapped the exhaust last weekend. We don't use the air con at all, so anything we can do to cool inside the car is worth a try.

I wrapped the two sections of exhaust, the first piece that bolts to the turbo that goes to the join under the front passenger seat, and the second piece that goes from there to just in front of the rear axle.

First drives on Sunday and Monday afternoon indicated that the passenger seat and footwell were noticeably cooler, and those days were reasonably warm. Proper long drive test will be at Christmas/New Year, heading down to Inverell/Bundarra.

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

[snip]

I've never played with exhaust wrap, but my first consideration would be to long term damage of the CAT and increased heat dissipation around the gearbox & transfer box (once the wrapping stops) just where you don't need extra heat! At least leaving the manifold & down pipe un-wrapped allows for heat dissipation via a greater air mass under the bonnet where its largely irrelevant.

Jon

Sent using Forum Runner

Mines wrapped to the back of the t/case, so that's a non issue

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

I've never played with exhaust wrap, but my first consideration would be to long term damage of the CAT and increased heat dissipation around the gearbox & transfer box (once the wrapping stops) just where you don't need extra heat!

It's not going to do any damage to the cat. The amount of heat that will dissipate out of the pipe won't be much. Even if it was doing damage, it wouldn't be anywhere near as much compared to the unburnt fuel being fed into the cat. Same goes really for the heat transfer after the heat wrap finishes. It's not going to concentrate heat anywhere. That area has a fairly constant supply of passing air anyway.

I've had no experience with heat wrap, or ceramic coating. I can only give my understanding from what i've seen others do and heat wrap tends to cause the wrapped pipe to rust quick. Ceramic coating is the best way to get better underbonnet temps. That's not to say there may be a combination of metal and certain heat wraps that don't cause the corrosion. But I havn't seen anyone do any research into it.

First thing I would do is pressure test your cooling system. I would also check the concentation. Just to see. Provided that yields no results, I would then go to pulling the radiator out and sticking the hose into it. Both inlet and outlet feeds untill what comes out is fresh water. Stick the hose into the fins making sure they're clear. Be carefull with the pressure. It can bend them.

While the radiator's out, check that there's no mud between the intercooler and condensor. I have personally seen a shiite load of mud get stuck between radiators and condensors after dips in the mud.

I would then pull the thermostat out aswell as any drain cocks in the block. Then hose the block out. Making sure all gunk comes out and the hoses for the drain cocks arn't corroded up. Just get some wire and shove it up there. A good length up there too. While it's out, stick the thermostat in a pot and cook it. Keep an eye on water temps and make sure that it pops open at the correct temp. It 'should' say it on the TS somewhere.

Once the system is clean, put it back together, refill, bleed and pressure test again. To be confident (aswell as to check you havn't cocked up anywhere) Drive it and see where that takes you. If it still does it. I would be going straight to the water pump. Pulling it off and checking the fins on the impeller. Check to see whether it slips on the shaft too.

It should'nt even matter once you get above 50-60km/h, but check and see if your fan's kicking in properly. If after all that, you still get the same thing, I would book it in and get the headgaskets checked.

Good luck!