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Thread: Tdi 300 crank case special tools. loan, Brisbane

  1. #1
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    Tdi 300 crank case special tools. loan, Brisbane

    Hi, guys and gals. I picked my self up a Tdi 300 defender the other day. I've been ready on here and I think I'd like to have a crack at replacing the rubber band and P gasket along with all the occiated bits.
    I'm needing and hoping to borrow a crank case puller, and a flywheel locking pin if possible over Dec/Jan. It reads as not a big job, but being a first for me I think I need the time to get it right.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    .....I picked my self up a Tdi 300 defender the other day.....
    You sick puppy.
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
    1993 BMW R100LT
    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  3. #3
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    Congratulations Jason, don't worry about Scallops, he's just jealous..

    I did the rubber band, drive gear, pulleys etc and cooling bits on mine a couple of months ago and it wasn't a drama. By crankcase puller I guess you mean crank shaft pulley / harmonic balancer puller ? I didn't need one on mine as it came off relatively easily.

    The flywheel locking pin is pretty important though especially for a novice (like I was pulling the 300 Tdi to bits). The other 'tool' you will need is a locking pin for the injector pump, I used the shank of a suitably sized drill which worked fine for me. The only thing I got a bit paranoid about was accidentally engaging the starter motor so I disconnected the battery and hung a bloody big sign on the steering wheel advising me of the foolishness of doing so.

    I removed the grille, front metalwork and radiator/intercooler (pretty simple job) when I did mine. This made it very easy to get in and do the job. Whilst it can be done without doing this I'm glad I did it this way, especially for 'the first time'.

    I also replaced the water pump (out of spite as there was nothing wrong with it) as it has to come off to do the P gasket anyway and it seemed a bit silly to put the old one back. I kept it as a spare. I also replaced the 3 long bolts, cost bugger all, and ended up with a better job. Used lots of anti sieze on the bolts etc.

    As I've just sold my Tdi 130 you can have my flywheel locking pin (just PM me your details), it was given to me by another forum member so it should be passed on to another.

    I've worked on all my LR's over the years, SII, SIII, Classic, P38a and the Defender Tdi which is without doubt the easiest of the lot to work on.

    Enjoy

    Deano

  4. #4
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    Ill bring the beer and also have a hardcopy of the manual if need be.
    Aaron & Jacinta
    1994 300Tdi Defender

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    Congratulations Jason, don't worry about Scallops, he's just jealous..

    I did the rubber band, drive gear, pulleys etc and cooling bits on mine a couple of months ago and it wasn't a drama. By crankcase puller I guess you mean crank shaft pulley / harmonic balancer puller ? I didn't need one on mine as it came off relatively easily.

    The flywheel locking pin is pretty important though especially for a novice (like I was pulling the 300 Tdi to bits). The other 'tool' you will need is a locking pin for the injector pump, I used the shank of a suitably sized drill which worked fine for me. The only thing I got a bit paranoid about was accidentally engaging the starter motor so I disconnected the battery and hung a bloody big sign on the steering wheel advising me of the foolishness of doing so.

    I removed the grille, front metalwork and radiator/intercooler (pretty simple job) when I did mine. This made it very easy to get in and do the job. Whilst it can be done without doing this I'm glad I did it this way, especially for 'the first time'.

    I also replaced the water pump (out of spite as there was nothing wrong with it) as it has to come off to do the P gasket anyway and it seemed a bit silly to put the old one back. I kept it as a spare. I also replaced the 3 long bolts, cost bugger all, and ended up with a better job. Used lots of anti sieze on the bolts etc.

    As I've just sold my Tdi 130 you can have my flywheel locking pin (just PM me your details), it was given to me by another forum member so it should be passed on to another.

    I've worked on all my LR's over the years, SII, SIII, Classic, P38a and the Defender Tdi which is without doubt the easiest of the lot to work on.

    Enjoy

    Deano
    Deano you read my mind with what I hope to do. I'm getting the aircon de gassed so I can pull the grill out. The aircon compressor needs a new bearing along the way as well. I will then clean the motor and I'd like to pull it apart to see if it's got the upgraded pulley kit in it before ordering parts. I'll PM you, many thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by MacFamily View Post
    Ill bring the beer and also have a hardcopy of the manual if need be.
    Tanks Aaron, Martin has offered up his hard copy.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    You sick puppy.
    yes mate, what can I say. Land Rovers are like a drug that cures the addiction.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  7. #7
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    Have got, will lend, send PM.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Blknight has probably got the required tools.
    If not I've got the timing belt locking pins,crank shaft locking tool,dial torque wrench,balancer remover and a 5ft lenght of tube for the balancer retaining nut.
    Your welcome to borrow any of it.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Have got, will lend, send PM.
    oki doki, will do
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  10. #10
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    Have a read of http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ming-belt.html

    in particular the bits about getting the balancer off (which is what I think you're refering to as a timing case puller)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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