Thread: rivnuts vs poprivets for checkerplate

Personally I'd go for pop rivets. They're easy enough to drill out if/when you need to remove the checkerplate and they deter any lowlife with a screwdriver thinking that they can get something for free. The finished job looks tidy too.

yeah, i would go the rivets. I made my own chequer plate wing tops and bonnet protector - used card board for templates - and riveted on. No probs after 300,000k. I reinforced the bonnet for a second spare and the edge of the bonnet too - you could roll the spare up over the bonnet without any dents - was awesome!

Looks like a good set-up Marty.

Holes in the checkerplate are already drilled and countersunk... think i'll need some big pop rivets to fill them

Standard rivits are fine if you are drilling blank plate, Patriot Chequer plate is counter sunk, exactly the same as Land Rovers own, and they are fitted in the same way with rivnuts.

We can for those people who prefer the rivited look, supply blank plate with no pre drilled holes.

I personnel would always choose the counter sunk, for that neater look and finish.

I'll give the rivnuts a crack... how hard can it be?

I'm going to have to drill holes in that nice steel bonnet to put the plate on there ... recommendations please for making sure that it doesnt rust down the track

I'm guessing you'd want to paint some protection on the exposed steel edges, but I'm not sure exactly what to use. Can't see why automotive paint primer wouldn't do though. Are the Rivnuts supplied steel, aluminium or a mix of both so you can use steel on steel and alloy on alloy and avoid electrolysis? Do you have a Rivnut tool? I have a manual one - used it twice to refit a snorkel to flogged out 'A' pillar holes on my Nissan GUte. I'd have to have a look to see the size ranges it does, but I know it depends whether they are steel or alloy Rivnuts. PM me if you want to work something out.

Originally Posted by Samblers

I'll give the rivnuts a crack... how hard can it be?

I'm going to have to drill holes in that nice steel bonnet to put the plate on there ... recommendations please for making sure that it doesnt rust down the track

I bought some chequer plate for my bonnet, and had the chequer plate on my wing tops re-powder coated then secured them all with rivnuts. Very impressed with how easy they are to install and use, and have used them many times since in securing lights, where there were little plastic bits holding them in. Even on a new fuel cap tethering it to the tray, and all of my light protectors.

No doubt about it, I am a rivnut advocate. You can buy the nut-serts in both aluminium and zinc coated steel. The aluminium is obviously the one I use most of as the like metals reduce the chances of galvanic corrosion. The selection of the bolt is what you will have to consider, however I got around this by using Duralac as an inhibitor.

Rivnut tools are also becoming more and more readily available at various places particularly online. I will be updating the progress of my 130 with pictures when I get back from holidays. Until then, if you want a couple of photos, just PM me.

And remember the golden rule, measure twice and drill once.

Just on the point of the strength of the aluminium.
You can strengthen both rivets and rivnuts by placing a washer with an appropriate sized hole behind the panel.
Sellers of rivets usually also sell the washers.
Of course you have to be able to access the rear of the panel to do this but it adds heaps of strength in tension and probably shear.
When I use rivets on plastic I do this and it adds heaps of strength.

Regards Philip A