does the model I am looking at come std with traction control front And back ?
and is it as good ?
And should I still look at hd axels and cvs ?
your taliking about getting a 2010 110 right ?, they have traction control,
( traction control started about 2002 onward in Defenders) Torsen type diffs are the choice ( Truetrac , qualfe lsd or Ashcroft ATB ) , if you have no traction control go for full difflock, ARB et . Unless you go rockhopping or something , truetracs easier on axles / cv and your wallet, and its fit and forget.
if you fit difflocks you must also get HD axles CV's and flanges. but a shame to fit Difflocks over Traction Control,
does the model I am looking at come std with traction control front And back ?
and is it as good ?
And should I still look at hd axels and cvs ?
Check to see if it Does have TC, our MY11 Duel Cab ute doesn't, nor does it have ABS, something to with being a commercial vehicle. Although I don't like ABS in the bush, I would like to have had it on the road, as I've had a couple of insidences at traffic lights.
I would have preferred having TC in the bush, but alas,, it's not to be in mine.
So you'll need to check what's on/in it so you can make a descision.
Land Rover invented traction control I think.
90 and 110 wagons have it. 130 twin cab and tray backs don't. They get around it under commercial vehicle code ..... Not sure about 110 utes.
It's becoming a popular choice to fit Eaton Tru Trac, or an Ashcroft ATB, soft lockers to vehicles with traction. Basically it's a limited slip in both ends aided with the ever improving traction control. Reports are it gets quite close or the same as lockers. The big plus is its softer on the drive line with no need for axel or CV upgrades.
Vehicles without traction, pre 02, and any 130 ever do not have traction control so lockers have been a better option. Unless your one of those magic drive and brake kind of dudes.
Some like ARB because they get warranty and are local. I say read your warranty card. It's useless unless you change the oil after every water crossing or after a small number of uses.
Ashcroft, UK based but does good work. I asked him about warranty and he said more than likely your crown and pinion will fail in a P38. But given his in the UK his hands are tied a bit, but certainly if the locker is to blame he will sort it. Initial fitting and repair work also had to be conducted by someone reputable.
E locker, Yukon, something else and Detroit auto locker are you other choices. Maxidrive are very nice, but very expansive. There is some waiting list going on there to I think.
Jason
2010 130 TDCi
To be honest, phs, you are going to have more issues with a Defender than you will with a Toyota. That might not be a popular call, but it's true.
If you don't like vehicles that "fail", and that included as sorts of niggly little things with the occasional big thing, look elsewhere.
If you fall for the mystique, the shape, the vibe...then a Defender will likely be the most rewarding vehicle you may ever own.
Good luck with the choice.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
TC was introduced with the 1999 Defender Extreme model. Apart from soft drive flanges and a gearbox that is marginal, mine has returned reasonable service over 460 000 km. Once we sorted out early ecu problems and oil filled engine looms!
A 40 mm lift front and rear took care of the standard spring sag. I don't run oversized tyres, never found the need and have managed to drive all over Australia, Malasia and Cambodia without problems.
No sign of front cv or axel problems either? The TC works well but does require more throttle than that of a standard model. The wheels need to be spinning for TC to work. Maybe I drive a bit softer than others
As to long term reliability, the Defender has had its ups and downs, mainly related to what's not in the Landrover service schedule. I.e. wheel bearings do not appear, but should be checked every 60 000 km. Suspention bushes need to be kept on top of (always use std rubber bushes) as the vehicle can get loose from worn bushes. The good news is that compared to other brands, quality parts are cheaply available. Best of luck.
As your original post states that the vehicle you are looking at is a 110 TRAYback,it won't have traction control anyway,and the debate re lockers v's TC and soft locker (TruTrac,ATB )etc. is moot.
There are nay sayers of every brand of vehicle,that will always point out the perceived weaknesses of other vehicles.It is a fact,that there is no such thing as a vehicle that doesn't have faults and weaknesses.You just need to find a vehicle that feels right when you sit in it,and gain pleasure when you look at it.Then you try and eliminate the known weaknesses as best as possible,a lot of people always make the point of stating that it depends on your driving style and where you normally drive as to what you need to modify.I tend to think along different lines,and think outside the square as there will be times that I will drive different places,where it isn't always possible to avoid a particular obstacle,and I would rather have a vehicle that was able to do so safely and without breaking something.Call it over engineering or whatever you like,but I just never like the thought of being stuck in the middle of nowhere with something that is broken,and thinking that a little money spent earlier would have alleviated this problem.
Late model Toyotas,Nissans,Mitsibishis etc all have their inherent faults,so don't think that by buying one of them,over a Land Rover that you will automatically enjoy trouble free motoring,like you have with your older vehicle.The Forums for these other vehicles are full of major failures and let downs at the most inopportune times,and vehicle manufacturers are trying to push the limits with all their components which doesn't leave as much of a safety margin and things tend to fail.
So don't be put off a Defender,as with the "RIGHT" modifications,they will give you many years of enjoyment and service.A testament to this,is the amount of older models you see still running around,compared to older model Toyos and Nissans.
And if you fit into a Defender,you won't find another vehicle that will bring a smile to your face,every time you drive it,like a Defender will.
Wayne
VK2VRC
"LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
Taking the road less travelled
'01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
LowRange 116.76:1
I really appreciate every ones input to making this decision and I'm going to have to make my mind up . the part that I feel this 4x4 has over other cab chassis is its a mid wheel base and can run road legal tyre and suspension setup while still being very capable off road .
but as stated diffs and cvs can be a drama and for what I do mostly ( vic high country ) it will be an issue .
As for the calls of other types of newer makes having problems . can't really agree .
I am looking at patrol 4.2 Ti and hdj79r can't really say any parts are prone to failure , there just to big and heavy and would need 35's to get the ground clearance to aviod damage where I intend to take the 4x4, I'm not mud addict, but as IV Experianced over the years the high Country can get seriouse quickly and a lot of the time once in it there is no turning back . having a SWB 70 I never had and damage but that wheel base with 33's x12.5 s it have great ground clearance. Just that I need a ute and out grew the SWb for storage .
I am definetly one for bullet proofing the best I can to avoid damage or worse yet failure out in the bush .
I guess the part that would annoy me would be if I spent the money on doing the axels flanges cvs and locks then it fails .
I do service my cars every 5000- 6000kms which is only 2 times a year. So that may be an advantage.
PHS
You do not need a lift to run 33's!!
Defenders run a 32"tyre standard.
As per previous post you can run a 255 x 85 x 16 which is bigger than 33 with no lift.
Cheers
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