Thread: 300 Tdi head fitting

I guess preventative maintenance really is fun, when you compare it to a blown head gasket 5000km from home and 1000km from any town . Oh and by the way the new head to go on is an International type one, the "flowed higher performance" one sold by Turners.

How did you go with the A/C condensor? ,I'm looking at doing the same.

The turners head, any change out of $1k

Cheers,
Tony

Originally Posted by jboot51

How did you go with the A/C condensor? ,I'm looking at doing the same.

The turners head, any change out of $1k

Cheers,
Tony

Will let you know regards the condenser but the head was $1070 including (the wrong) headgasket and tappet cover, manifold gasket etc, new bolts and timing belt. This included courier fees. The headgasket was only wrong because I didn't know you could "read" it with the head still on and you can select the headgasket by ticking the appropriate box when you order.
Edit, they have a standard replacement head for about 100 quid cheaper, spanish made.

for increased reliability lower the compression ratio (thicker head gasket) and then give it about 1/2 of a stage 1 mod (either up the start position on the at rest set screw a mickey or rotate the plunger a little) to the injector pump to compensate it back to normal driving figures in the mid range.

Had the gas sucked out this arv (a friend I 4wd with makes icepack truck cab AC units) turns out it didn't have much gas left in it anyhow, was last gassed in 2009. He had a look at the condenser and reckons it's a multiflow brand and is only $150, his price I'd assume. He says replace it in preference to cleaning as they corrode internally after 5 or so years.
So Dave, the 1.6mm gasket it is then, I'd really appreciate some guidance regards boost and fuelling, should I get boost and pyro gauges in first? First things first though of course.

yep, boost and pyro, good for engine life and fuel savings if you learn how to drive the gauges. Get a feeling for how its all playing and then if you like we'll wind it up through stages 1-2 of pump tweakery


keep the exisiting condensor and reciever, if you bolt up a second Ac pump you can use it as a cooler for an endless air supply and if you do the revs just right its just big enough to let you get from one tyre to the next without the pump cutting out.

Okay, picked up a VDO pyro gauge today (still waiting for boost and water temp), is there a prefered distance down the dump pipe it should go? The VDO book said minimum of 150mm?
Oh and why is this site all in really small writing? I can't work out how to fix it, it's really hard to see!
Search didn't seem to help, besides too hard to read...

Best place for the pyro is in the egr plate before the turbo