Is this something that would change / drift out over time? The reason I ask is that mine has never been adjusted and all bushes & ball joints are good.
Thx
J
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It's been a while since I checked my alignment.....
Might whack the heads on and have a quick look while its on the hoist.....
Can't hurt....
yes, as componentry wears and tolerances increase the front wheels will start to toe in , esp under power (same applies to any front wheel drive / constant 4wd vehicle) so you need to adjust for more toe-out over time .
wheel alingment places traditionally adjust them for TOE IN, for whatever reason they think Defenders are selecteable 4WD in which case toe-in is correct. I argued with the Local Trye place about this & they showed me their book which states 1mm TOW IN - thats just plain wrong,
its easy enough to check yourself with a pole, or piece of string.
All of the above, but also check your front shockies. I had a similar issue for 12 months, felt like I was hanging onto a bag full of wallabies everytime I hit a bump at >80km/h on a slight bend - turned out to be the RH shock was buggered. Less than 12mths old, so it was one of the last things I checked, but kaputt nonetheless.
I changed out all the bushes etc. and although each thing I did helped a little bit, the problem was still there. Steering damper is a red-herring, it won't fix anything, but might mask it a little bit.
I had a frustrating vibration problem about 3 years ago that took a long while to identify. With a set of secondhand BFG 235x85 MT's on tubeless 6.5 inch Wolf rims that I had run for a while. Actually these look like genuine ones except no Land Rover part numbers. Seems had been sourced via aftermarket, probably from same factory that supplies Land Rover. Anyway, one tyre kept going flat, so I got local tyre place to put a tube in it.
This rim had a hole for the smaller tubeless teat but they installed a tube with the larger approx 16 mm one. (Rough operators who have since gone out of business - another bloke there now.) Was balanced on dynamic balancer, which apparently only run at what would be a fairly low road speed. However, was significant vibration at 90-100 kph. Turned out it was because fat teat did not protrude much through hole and tube was pushed back from inside of rim around it. It seems that at high speed, this was distorting enough to throw wheel that was balanced at low speed out of balance.
Problem was cured by removing tube and boring out teat hole. Found out hard way it is best to also remove tyre first. Did not get all the slivers of metal out and subsequently had a puncture from one.
Had some spare time at work today and managed to put lurch up on the hoist......
Put the heads on to check the wheel alignment and found it had 2mm toe in.......so I've given 2mm toe out........to see if that makes a difference......
The front radius arm to diff bushes didn't look the best.....so I will probably start with overhauling the front arms.......these will allow the diff to dance side to side if worn......and will chew out the pan hard rod sooner or later......
I don't think the alignment made any difference to the wobble......but couldn't really get up to speed with the traffic on my way home......
Will take it for another run and see if there's any change.......
Oh.....also checked for any play in the wheel bearings and swivel bearings......and there isn't any at all.......that's a good thing I guess......
Cheers....
Hi double check ya panhard bushes my county did this for a while, I did the wheel balance and new tyre never fixed wasnt bad until one day all hell broke loose then found panhard bush under steering box had totaly failed it was a poly bush not very old but they dont like power steering oil, repalaced no more prob, so maybe its this, if even slight movement try that.
regards G2
i tried to lever the pan hard rod and got absolutely no movement out of it.....
might just pull it out and have a physical look at the bushes....
So Tony, any progress ?
I've had some weird wobbles at times (that weren't alcohol induced :p) including.
Panhard rod bolt loose at the chassis end.
Dead drivers side shockie.
Hit a bump and off that corner would go as if you had no swivel pre-load or a dead steering damper.
It would do it cornering or in a straight line, didn't matter.
Re Don's suggested toe out figure, I've been running 2mm overall (1mm/side) toeout for years on the 130 and it drives nice and straight.
Years ago my old F100 would occasionally nearly throw me out the window under braking, the shake would be that violent.
I'd had multiple wheel balances, I'd checked the toe, etc.
It was the wheel balance in the finish.
Wheels with minimal backspace need everything nice and tight and balanced otherwise they amplify any small irregularity. I think the 15x8's I ran on that only had 70mm or so of backspace, so loads of offset which didn't help, and I'm guessing the tyre blokes may have only been doing a static balance rather than a dynamic on top of the static, but I'm only guessing there.
The tyres are old and worn....I got them second hand so had no control over the wear pattern on them......which includes some scalloping.......
I have balanced them a few times but no success.......
There's no movement in the pan hard rod.....and I checked the bolts yesterday......they were tight on both ends......
I might throw in a set of shocks in it.......it should have +2 in the front but I was given standard length front and rear when I did up my suspension......
I have since replaced the rears with terra firma big bore +2 in the rear.....and just haven't got around to replacing the fronts yet.......
I suppose I should go and pull the shock out now and have a look at it......but it's just too hot......can't be bothered right now.......
I'll find the problem sooner or later......I'm gonna eliminate or confirm the wheels by refitting the standard wheels back on when I get a chance.......