Which ones actually cause the problems.....
The four small ones on the diff end......?
I thought that you had already changed out the radius rod bushes tony, then I read back through and saw that you hadn't yet.
Most certainly these are the culprit, ESPECIALLY while mild cornering at speed. it can set off a huge vibe.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Which ones actually cause the problems.....
The four small ones on the diff end......?
Both the front and the rear bushes of the radius arms can set off an oscillation in the front end when they are worn.And they can wear out very quickly,especially if you use the vehicle offroad where the front end is flexing a lot.I can chew rubber bushes in under 1,000km
A simple test for the diff end bushes,is to put a jack under the radius arm at the diff and you can see the radius arm will normally twist in the mount and you can see where it has come unbonded around the crush tube.If the mounts are good then the radius arm doesn't normally twist very much in the mount.
Wayne
VK2VRC
"LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
Taking the road less travelled
'01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
LowRange 116.76:1
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						hi there i had exactly the same problem after fitting wrangler muddies
to my 98 110 near drove me mad guys from british offroad told to get a new wheel alignment and give it 5 degrees negative camber instant fix
good luck.
How do you adjust camber on a fender.....?
You have to remove the swivel hub assembly and chamfer the mounting plate....or bend the diff housing.......
Do you know how they adjusted the camber......?
Only toe is adjustable.....camber and caster involve a bit of work.....
I've fitted the factory rubber back on and it's made no difference......still get the wobbles....
But I have noticed that the wobbles happen at speed in over drive or coasting.....under load they seem to go away.....
This is what made me think the bushes.....as under load they get pushed to one side and can't move as much......
When there is no load.....they start to jump around......a simple bump or just harmonics will get it happening.......
I'm not too worried about it other than its gonna prematurely wear out other components such as the steering box etc......
I'm more trying to understand HOW it all works and which bush is the culprit.....or is it a combination of bushes.....?
I thought it would have been the radius arm to out rigger bushes......allowing the whole diff assembly to move around....then under load they get pulled forward and dampen the movement......
But others with more experience on this model are saying the smaller bushes at the front are allowing the diff to have sideways movement.....which will cause the same results.....
Either way.....I need to change all six bushes......plus the ones on the back diff....
They are all the original bushes.....now ten years old.....and have done 160 000 kms........
If its quiet enough at work this week....I might be able to get them done......
Can't do the at home cos I need a press......otherwise....they are pretty simple to do......
Oh....forgot to ask.....how did the camber affect cornering......?
It should corner a lot better now......
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Offset/eccentric swivel cups are used in Patrols and Land Cruisers to change the camber and castor and it doesn't take much of a change to change the steering characteristics.
I'm guessing they've increased castor, not camber as IMO that would help the stability of the wheel.
The more castor an axle has the greater the straight line stability becomes at the expense of increased steering weight.
If the car has been lifted to the point of having zero castor, I can see the wheel wanting to possibly wobble and be very unstable just driving along.
This tow in and out stuff.
It was described to me that tow out is what a landy needs, as mentioned.
Because the Tie Rod connects behind the swivel hubs is why.
When the car is moving forward and has a tow out setting, the tyres straighten and pull on the tie rod. Trying to straighten it so to speak, or certainly keep it under load. This is correct for a landy's steering. And tow out should be 1 to 1.5, but can go higher with LR tolerances.
With tow in, as the wheels straighten in a forward motion, they push on the tie rod causing it to bow, thus can cause a wobble wobble vibration as the road surface varies.
What I'm calling the tie rod is the one that runs behind the diff.
I have found with mine upon a tyre rotation at 10K. Back to front, fronts in shed, shed fronts to back, all coded left and right; I have a new set of vibrations, direction pull, and some wobbles. So I get all running wheels balanced each rotation.
I used a main steam tyre fitter for a while trying to sort a wobble, over and over we did the balance to no avail. New tyres fixed it until first rotation.
I changed tyre fitter and no wobbles at all for 99.5% of the time
HOWEVER
There are bitumen road surfaces out there that cause the steering to pig root around for a bit. And that can even be a brand new road. I run 33" muds.
hope this helps in some way
Jason
2010 130 TDCi
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks