Thread: Starting Woes - 2004 TD5

Lots of forum trawling this morning is now making me think FPR might be at fault.

It is dirty in this area (leaking) and the starter motor some times fails to turn but you can hear the solonoid click (fuel damage).

would a failing FPR cause starting problems.

The internet is a dangerous place! I am glad I am not ill as I am sure I would be makiong all manner of crazy diagnoses!

FPR? Bloody abbreviations... No idea what that is!!!

However, one thought did spring to mind:
If you turn the ignition on so all the lights on the dash come on, can you here the fuel pump? (I hope so!)...

Next, listen to that hum from the fuel pump for 30s... It should be making a constant whirring sound; is it a constant hum or is it gurgling at all?

If its gurgling and making funny noises then thats your problem. Somehow, somewhere its sucking air back into the lines and then your trying to start with fresh air.

If its a constant hum, assume the pump is fine and thus fuel pressure to the injectors will also be fine.


R
J

Originally Posted by Leyland1980

...I used a friends hawkeye recently and it flagged 2 CPS faults and a problem in injector 2 circuit (oil in loom?). I have therefore renewed the CPS and put some time and effort into getting rid of the oil at the red plug...

John,
What is the CPS that you have replaced?

Did you clear the fault log, go for a drive and re-log? Is the injector 2 error the very thing you need to be focussing on? If its dead (unlikely) then starting a 5 pot block on 4 will probably delay starting speed.

When you had the rocker cover off, did you make a note of each of the injector codes and compare those to the codes recorded in the ECU? They really need to match.

R
J

FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator
CPS - Crank Position Sensor

Yes faults cleared and then not re logged after a few runs.

Given the fuel around the FPR and the fact that the starter sometime just clicks with out turning over this is my current focus area. New FPR now ordered and will go on over the weekend.


I wasn't able to log all the injector codes etc as the Hawkeye I had access to is on its way overland to the UK now! but I am pretty sure that the injector 2 fault was oil in loom, which seams to be ok now.

Am I right in thinking that if there was an electrical or individual injector fault it would run badly?

I think that the fuel pump sounds OK but perhaps not perfect making me think that IT is ok but it is getting air from somewhere else (FPR).

Here's my thought...


Starter motor clutch solenoid is just about dead.

When it clicks there is too much dust and crap in there to allow the contacts to pull together and allow the current to flow.

I suspect when it does turn its only being turned by a fraction of the current it really needs to turn. This will induce heat build up due to the high resistance in the starter solenoid and reduce starting ability due to lack of current flow.

A leaky fuel system may or may not be a contributing factor.

The good news is the solenoid repair kits are readily available on eBay for about $50.

Bad news is its a PITA to get the starter off and on again to allow access to change the bits.

Even if this isn't the cause of your problem, you need to do it to get the starter turning reliably, before you are left stranded.

R
J

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Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

Even if this isn't the cause of your problem, you need to do it to get the starter turning reliably, before you are left stranded.

Liberal dose of contact cleaner?

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

Here's my thought...


Starter motor clutch solenoid is just about dead.

When it clicks there is too much dust and crap in there to allow the contacts to pull together and allow the current to flow.

I suspect when it does turn its only being turned by a fraction of the current it really needs to turn. This will induce heat build up due to the high resistance in the starter solenoid and reduce starting ability due to lack of current flow.

A leaky fuel system may or may not be a contributing factor.

The good news is the solenoid repair kits are readily available on eBay for about $50.

Bad news is its a PITA to get the starter off and on again to allow access to change the bits.

Even if this isn't the cause of your problem, you need to do it to get the starter turning reliably, before you are left stranded.

R
J

Sent using Forum Runner

Before pulling the starter, remove the push-on connector on the starter solenoid and give the connector and terminal a clean. It's also worth cleaning the battery earth terminal too. I had the non-start click happening on my D2 Td5 and the terminal clean got the engine running again. I've since replaced the solenoid for peace of mind, although it wasn't strictly necessary.

Originally Posted by Leyland1980

Liberal dose of contact cleaner?

Won't work. Unless an external cable is loose you need to drop the starter motor and pull it apart to replace the solenoid contacts.

Prepare for lots of swearing

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