Thread: best defender bullbar suggestions..

My mate just purchased an aluminium bar off ebay and asked me to pick it up and pack it off to Adelaide for him . Its nowhere near steel strength and still weighs 50kg. I honestly think if you want the strength of steel or the ability to withstand a roo hit then go steel......

Roo,s if I hit one then say-lah -ve ! I live in the country and no the risk . Wallabies ( not the rugby one's ) are more the prob round hear but night time driving I rarely do . Me still think the weight and strength diff is paying off in fuel saving . TJM do them for other models but not mine , why so ? Must be someone out there , long time ago a mate of mine had one built for his series 3 and was so cool . Ya ya . No longer have contact with the dude .

In 1992 Mal Story (Maxi Drive) made me an alloy bar for my 110 tray back.
He made it out of scaffold tubing.
10 years in the north west of WA and many big roo hits at well over the speed limit and the bar was in the same condition as the day it was fitted.

Mocky.

Actually,
although I still like the bits in this thread, I find it interesting...

But I was offered and accepted the offer from Tombie to purchase the ARB
winch bar off his previous defender (a tombraider).

Basically its sweet and fitted well just in time for me to go to the snow and Vic including Melbourne etc etc... (very nearly called into service about 8 hours after fitting as we headed off and it was foggy, was doing about 80 in a 110 zone** when big red hops out to side of road with no notice etc!! Luckily he didnt keep coming... )

I mentioned and thanked Tombie for this elsewhere but not in this so I must apologise for being slack..

I am still interested in seeing peoples ideas, maybe not just what bar, but individual features... I like to jacking and tow points included, uhf and spottie tabs, winch capable, indicators...

maybe some have good ideas that I or others havent thought of could pop up....


sketches anyone....??

** anyone else think its sweet to have a zone for their defender/series model?
110 zones
90 zones
80 zones
in NT 130 zone..

(pity about 86, 88, 107, 109s!!)

personally I think a individualised Defender zone is all a bit 2013. They are largely the same car for the past 30 years.
I vote NO for more sections and complexity in my life.

Back to bull bars, but and it relates to 2013, if one is made do they require certification. Since they are rumoured to kill hordes of pedestrians than I guess so.
My 17 year old TJM which is still the current style is rusting away. Water has made it's way under the powder coat and been trapped. I'm happy with it except for the unique indicators that are only available at TJM for stupid money. Not a problem but if you hit mud then they get pushed through the bar and are stuffed. So another $80 for indicators.
Been thinking of getting one made similar and galvanising it. Less the indicators or if so something from the Narva catalogue.
Was also thinking of folding a bash plate from the bar to back over the steering mechs. Using the standard mounts from the tubed nudge bar as part of the mounting.

I have added a U bolt to the top cross bar of my TJM bar, I hook the winch hook through it. I got tired of it and the rope being covered in mud or dragged across surfaces so hooked it up high out of the way. Police haven't said anything yet. They have another 1 000 000 rules to try and police before obstruction of a front number plate.

Things I have noticed though, the spot tabs on a TJM commercial bar are only for say 180mm dia lights, any bigger wont fit without making the light protrude way out past the front of the bar. I personally like them contained within the bar for protection.
And early ARB bars, and to a much lesser extent with TJM, they have a lower cross bar on the wings that crosses in front the head light blocking the bottom 1/3 of the light. Not sure if it has any effect however.

Aerial's on the left front corner may help you know where it is, but go missing quickly. Centre is good for lining up feral cats, but a pain when you have to look under the hood, so of centre in front of the passenger seems best.

Originally Posted by newhue

personally I think a individualised Defender zone is all a bit 2013. They are largely the same car for the past 30 years.
I vote NO for more sections and complexity in my life.

Back to bull bars, but and it relates to 2013, if one is made do they require certification. Since they are rumoured to kill hordes of pedestrians than I guess so.
My 17 year old TJM which is still the current style is rusting away. Water has made it's way under the powder coat and been trapped. I'm happy with it except for the unique indicators that are only available at TJM for stupid money. Not a problem but if you hit mud then they get pushed through the bar and are stuffed. So another $80 for indicators.
Been thinking of getting one made similar and galvanising it. Less the indicators or if so something from the Narva catalogue.
Was also thinking of folding a bash plate from the bar to back over the steering mechs. Using the standard mounts from the tubed nudge bar as part of the mounting.

I have added a U bolt to the top cross bar of my TJM bar, I hook the winch hook through it. I got tired of it and the rope being covered in mud or dragged across surfaces so hooked it up high out of the way. Police haven't said anything yet. They have another 1 000 000 rules to try and police before obstruction of a front number plate.

Things I have noticed though, the spot tabs on a TJM commercial bar are only for say 180mm dia lights, any bigger wont fit without making the light protrude way out past the front of the bar. I personally like them contained within the bar for protection.
And early ARB bars, and to a much lesser extent with TJM, they have a lower cross bar on the wings that crosses in front the head light blocking the bottom 1/3 of the light. Not sure if it has any effect however.

Aerial's on the left front corner may help you know where it is, but go missing quickly. Centre is good for lining up feral cats, but a pain when you have to look under the hood, so of centre in front of the passenger seems best.

I've been driving 4wd's for 33yrs had ARB bars on a hole lot of of diff vehicles . I now were I drive and no the requirements of my protection bar that I require . When driving on sand the lighter the better and rust resistant with salt is the go . Personally me think ARB really just designed one bar and adapted it for every 4wd made . Please don't get me started on ARB products , especially after my last car had all the ARB bling and all let me down ! So anyone know of a aluminium bar that fits ??? By the way somethings must have changed from the earlier models , when ordering parts ( front mud flaps etc ) suppliers can't guarantee if it will fit . Also running a 2.2 ltr I don't wont to be driving a totally over weight house brick , or more than I have to !!

Originally Posted by stickit

... rust resistant with salt is the go . ...So anyone know of a aluminium bar that fits ??? ....

That is the big problem. When I removed my alloy bullbar the bolts holding it on had corroded sacrificially - also the ends of the chassis had started.

Aluminium (bullbar) and steel (chassis) are not a good combo. Landrover go to a lot of trouble to isolate steel and AL on the bodies but still have corosion problems.

Only galvanised steel bars for me from now on...

Stickit, My TJM bar comes it at 40kg. I have an old school ARB here that is similar perhaps a touch heavier. I think weight V value for steel isn't that bad. I use a 20kg tigers winch with syn rope, again think that is alright also for the get out of jail freedom a winch gives. So all up 60kg hanging of the front to me seems a reasonable figure for the deal I get from it. Be good if the wife weighed 60kg.

Overall I don't think 60kg makes much difference to a Defender's economy either. Tyre size and pressure would easily consume more energy. Things like snorkels and roof racks all bit by bit increase the economy.

Personally I prefer no bar. I love that clean look. But the old skippies, and the occasional tree seem to get in the way of a 130.

There is an alloy fabricator in Ballina who does beautiful welding. He is a real talent. He also likes doing different jobs. He may be interested in a custom alloy bar. If you keen PM me and I can chase down his details.