try disconcerting the wires on the clutch switch.
 Fossicker
					
					
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						 Defender Over Boosting / Over Revving
 Defender Over Boosting / Over Revving
		Hi,
Recently started to notice that my 2003 cab/chassis td5 defender (190kms) is over boosting or revving. it seems to do it after its a working temp, in gears 3,4,5 and only after a little throttle.
unrelated but, ive recently had the clutch, fly wheel, master/ slave cylinder repaired
Has anyone had or know what the problem could be, turbo, fuel, pumps??
try disconcerting the wires on the clutch switch.
Are you sure the clutch hasn't got air in the system / not been bled properly, or just badly adjusted? I'd suggest that the problem would be clutch slipping, or at least related to the recent works and not the motor over revving or over boosting.
Sent using Forum Runner
Regards,
Jon
You say 'over boosting/reving'. What pressures/rpm are we talking about? Cheers.
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						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						How would i go about disconnecting the clutch switch?
Not sure if the clutch has air in the system or something that would be affecting that
Not sure what pressure or rpms as no rev counter
under normal throttle the engine is revving very high esp when travelling up hill, throttle pedal not even flat.
Sounds like a slipping clutch, especially in the last 3 gears and up a hill
Don't continue to drive it until you sort this out as if it is a warranty sort of situation you need to get it attended to ASAP.
Was the clutch fitted at a workshop, or DIY?
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
If its revving under stress in high gears going uphill or towing then it's a slipping clutch. It would feel like the engine is revving or jumping but your not moving forwards like you normally would.
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						the clutch was fitted at workshop!
ill have to drive it back to them... the clutch/fly wheel and transfer was replaced and fitted 4months ago and the slave/master 1 month
does the workshop need to accountable here you think
Well they need to be the first port of call and discussion for sure, it may be something minor causing the problem but if you keep driving it like that the warranty on parts and work performed will be reduced somewhat I would say. Depending of course if there was no choice to keep driving it BUT if it is in daily use like this for a time before contacting/ getting it looked at then it would constitute carelessness of the operator to a degree as the vehicle was continually operated with a known/ suspected fault, causing further damage. How are they to know you hadn't lent the vehicle to someone who then tried to tow a 3 ton caravan up a hill starting off in 3rd gear.
This is Just a viewpoint from an industry perspective, no reflection on you as the owner or the workshop who fitted it all. Like I said it may be something simple like a hydraulics fault in the cylinder/s causing the clutch not to fully release, this in turn will ruin the clutch itself if you keep using it so then it isn't really fair to expect them to supply and fit a whole new clutch at huge $$$ for a repair that would have cost less than $200.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Quick one to try here... If it slips going up a hill in 3rd/4th' then it'll slip if you find a decent post or shed upright and chain the vehicle to it. Select diff lock to spread the load. Take up the tension then select third, give it some reasonable revs and bring the clutch up. (Don't dump the clutch as you'll break something, but don't ride it!). If you manage to get your foot off the pedal before the engine stalls then the clutch IS slipping. If it stalls straight away while your foot is still lifting then the clutch is ok. Don't do this for long as it's fairly harsh on the flywheel/pressure plate.
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