Thread: Sound Deadening

Theoretically there will be some reflecting but with the right material it will be a significant nett gain.

flagg has it. In this case sound proofing with the correct material isn't about bouncing the sound away, it's about absorbing it.

So the foam with the silver front may bounce it back more than just the plain foam which will absorb the noise.

Also interested in the engine blankets from the previous post. Does anyone know how much they cost and what freight they charge. I sent them an enquiry but did not get a response. (seems to be common from these UK suppliers as I have emailed about a few products and they don't reply. )

It will also stop the bonnet acting like a drum-skin.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I don't have a defender, but you're on the right track as Judo said. Target the biggest and flattest panels first (I'd expect those to be doors, roof and floors). Use a convenient sized patch in the middle of each panel. The idea is to stop the panels buzzing and ringing. You will hear the difference tapping a panel from before to after.

You'll get the best results from covering everything in EVA foam. More thinner layers are better than fewer thicker layers for both installation flexibility and noise reduction.

Hi Dougal,
Thought I might revive this thread.

Can you provide a link to the roof flashing tape you mention, so I don't get the wrong one?

Also, I notice you suggest 3 layers of 3mm EVA. How much difference would it be for a layer of 10mm EVA. I'm thinking 10mm would be quicker and easier to install. A link to a cheap supplier would again be appreciated.

Finally, I have the usual issue with water ingress. In the past, this seems to hang around under the genuine mats (thick rubber with foam underneath), Which I reckon would definitely lead to rust appearing in the footwell. Using EVA foam, I imagine I'd still have the same issue, thus needing to remove them regularly to dry the water out. Any suggestions (other than fixing the leaks, which is no mean feat on a Defender!) for removing/preventing the water from accumulating under the foam?

There has been a lot on this post about sound proofing , I would like to tell you what I did . My roof lining was sagging on my td5 , so I took It to see whether It was worth trying to fix or not . Anyway while the lining was out my 110 was so much nosier plus It got blooding hot inside as well . I got hold of some filter medium . This is the stuff they use in spray booths , It as to be changed on a regular basis . So I gave It a wash ,'' warm water and soap powder " I cut It to size just the same as the other guy's , used liquid nails to hold It in place , job done . I couldn't believe the difference It made , to both temperature , and sound . I then fixed up the roof lining put that back , and must say I was very pleased . The cost two tubes of liquid nails , and a few hours of my time . Cheers Jim

Ranga before you buy any stuff - I want some too so maybe we can get it a bit cheaper buying more...

My #1 concern is that I don't want ANY water absorbing material. At all.

I like roamingtheoutback's video on roof insulation but I just need to be sure what actual products to best use that meet my WATERPROOF requirements.

The previous owner of my ute had some sort of material which held water and had led to much more significant rust than I'd thought. I don'd care to repeat that.

I'm looking at doing this too and have the same concern about moisture retention. I plan to cut down on water ingress by re-sealing the roof (probably including removing it entirely to replace seals between the roof and body), replacing the windscreen seal (and fixing any rust I find under it) and replacing the door seals. I might even try to get the doors to fit properly - that would be a first

I think that waterproof materials would still be a must in footwells, floors, compartments and anywhere that water might pool. For things like under bonnet insulation I'm not so concerned, as the heat under there should dry things pretty quickly.

There are some good threads on here about sound deadening, but it's a lot to wade through and some advice contradicts other advice. I'd like to do the job on a reasonable budget, as with an Isuzu engine and very noisy tyres no amount of money is going to make it quiet.

One thing I want to do is stop the rear sliding windows rattling. I would like a set of gullwing windows but really can't afford them. As I'm taking the roof off, I might look at replacing the panels the windows fit into with a set I have from a series III wagon. They look like they will fit and the windows sit in bailey channel. If I replace the old bailey channels the windows should be fairly rattle free. The panels aren't the right colour, but the vehicle looks like an old chicken shed anyway.