Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 43

Thread: Defender 110 gutter flex

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,466
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Defender 110 gutter flex

    I'm about to pack up and go on another Simpson/ inland Australia trip.

    One of the few issues we had with our car last time was that the roof racks would occasionally come off... or move and require re-tightening. It would appear that when driving over rough roads the gutter is flexing and allowing the rack to come off. Typically you will see the clamp has moved before it comes off and you can adjust it back.

    Our set up is a Thule 900l roof box with two Rhino defender roof racks.

    Clearly the first question is load. As far as I can add up...

    Racks 10kg (might be a bit generous there)
    Roof pod 25kg
    Tent 25kg
    bedding 15kg
    clothes 15kg
    Awning 10kg.

    That adds up to 100. Of course, about 45 is just the pod, rack and awning. Clearly I've either got to reduce the load or find some way of reinforcing things.

    Anyway, the point of this is I'm sure I've seen people use small bits of steel (stainless) strap in the gutter to spread the load. Anyone got any ideas about this?
     2005 Defender 110 

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,484
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Could you attach / introduce a couple more bars to the setup? If they could attach to the roof box arrangement and the gutter that would dramatically reduce the point loads in the gutter?

    The problem of course is that these systems are not design for heavily corrugated roads, much less a Defender with a roof that flexes as much as they do!

    Sent using Forum Runner
    Regards,
    Jon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I remember quite a restriction on the roofrack load for the Defender.
    Just found a manual on-line and it's 150kg for a 2000 model but it states "driving off-road with a loaded roofrack is not recommended" !!

    My roofrack where it sits in the gutter has a strip that runs full length to spread the load.
    I can upload a picture later if it helps.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,568
    Total Downloaded
    0
    park your defender across a spoon drain so that the axles are fully articulated / crossed up, then try to open and close a door, it wont open close properly, the body is all twisted up. In notmal 4wding the body is flexing all the time (not to that extent but it all adds up) IMO Thats a great reason not to use a roof rack, unless its properley designed to flex. (are any??) The first thing you will notice is the front of the roof above the windscreen will curl up slightly away from the glass on each side, A rivet on the inside pulls out and the seal goes, then eventually you get wet feet when it rains.

    I prefer to pull a trailer than load up the roof, you also end up with a whole heap of other issues resulting from raised COG.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,466
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    park your defender across a spoon drain so that the axles are fully articulated / crossed up, then try to open and close a door, it wont open close properly, the body is all twisted up. In notmal 4wding the body is flexing all the time (not to that extent but it all adds up) IMO Thats a great reason not to use a roof rack, unless its properley designed to flex. (are any??) The first thing you will notice is the front of the roof above the windscreen will curl up slightly away from the glass on each side, A rivet on the inside pulls out and the seal goes, then eventually you get wet feet when it rains.

    I prefer to pull a trailer than load up the roof, you also end up with a whole heap of other issues resulting from raised COG.
    I agree with you.. they flex a lot in normal use. I don't doubt this is a factor in the problem. On the positive side - I've got two individual roof rails connected by a flimsy roof pod so the whole thing can continue to move.

    It's only a problem on dirt roads and off road when the body is working a lot.

    Unfortunately, backing down a sand dune with a trailer in the middle of the Simpson isn't really an option and I just can't fit enough gear in the back of the car as we loose the back seats as I've got two kids. So, I'm going to have to sort this problem somehow.
     2005 Defender 110 

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,466
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon View Post
    Could you attach / introduce a couple more bars to the setup? If they could attach to the roof box arrangement and the gutter that would dramatically reduce the point loads in the gutter?

    The problem of course is that these systems are not design for heavily corrugated roads, much less a Defender with a roof that flexes as much as they do!

    Sent using Forum Runner
    Unfortunately no, as the pod only has two attachment points, so it's two bars only. Even if I hacked another mount it would be three in the middle third of the pod, as it's rounded outside of the designated attachment points.
     2005 Defender 110 

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,466
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I remember quite a restriction on the roofrack load for the Defender.
    Just found a manual on-line and it's 150kg for a 2000 model but it states "driving off-road with a loaded roofrack is not recommended" !!

    My roofrack where it sits in the gutter has a strip that runs full length to spread the load.
    I can upload a picture later if it helps.


    Colin
    Where did you get the strip from? I'm thinking a small light piece of stainless or the likes might do the trick.
     2005 Defender 110 

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Gold coast
    Posts
    3,130
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Are the likes of Rhino and thurle actually tested in the outback.

    I have had over 5 years use out of my Hannibal rack and not one problem, with both the rack or vehicle. Both the Hannibal and Patriot racks we sell have metal strips between all the leg sets for extra support.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot View Post
    Where did you get the strip from? I'm thinking a small light piece of stainless or the likes might do the trick.
    The strip is an integral part of the rack.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by juddy View Post
    Are the likes of Rhino and thurle actually tested in the outback.

    I have had over 5 years use out of my Hannibal rack and not one problem, with both the rack or vehicle. Both the Hannibal and Patriot racks we sell have metal strips between all the leg sets for extra support.
    ^^^^ this!

    I've had a number of problems with Rhino bars working loose - never any issues with Hannibal racks though.

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!