Thanks for taking the time to help answer my questions.
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Thanks for taking the time to help answer my questions.
No worries, thats probably why I am here on this planet :o :D
JC
I've had the 110 into the dealer last week because I've had two incidents where the key would not turn in the barrel at all.
The first time I sat there for about 30 minutes jiggling, taking key in and out, putting the wheel lock on etc. and then for some reason it just worked.
Went home and put some Inox in it. Noticed there was a lot of play in the barrel too - quite loose.
A month or two later the same thing happened but after 45 minutes of no luck I ended up calling Land Rover Roadside Assist. They just sent out the RACQ! Hahaha!
The dealer here in Brisbane said the replacement has to come from England and will take 2-3 weeks.
At the same time I ordered a replacement key and fob because I lost one of the originals somewhere. Current cost of replacement - $570.00. That hurt.
Folks is this the latest rev LR039638 ?
Mine is a bit fiddly also :(
Wow failing already! Mine is fiddly but serviceable, I want to carry a spare in case it lets go.
That said I squirted a generous amount of lanolin into the keyhole which flushed a lot of gunk out and now it seems to work a lot better.
x2
key, fob, switch all the same as previous Defender TD5 (well the key is a big chunky key now (but its not a transponder key) thats great for Defender owners) The dealer price is nuts.
Yes funny how same part from earlier Defender models now fail on the Defender TDCi (puma).
How many diff lock switches have you replaced on a TDCi (puma)??
Regards
Daz
Update:
After a few weeks, Land Rover contacted me and said the ignition part had arrived, so I made a booking and in it went today.
Outcome - not fixed.
As explained by the staffer today, Step 1 is not to replace the entire barrel as I'd been told - but to replace a lesser switch within the works. This is because LR dealers have to follow an escalating process rather than jumping straight to the more expensive parts.
Anyhow, replacing the switch didn't fix the stickiness of the key in the ignition and the looseness of the barrel itself, so now they're going to order the whole barrel, which will be another few weeks I guess.
I'd also ordered a replacement key and fob because I'd lost a set, and this was handed over today. Unfortunately in coding the new key and fob, they'd decoded my originals. So when I went to start it up the immobiliser cut the engine out. Back into the workshop it went to have the key recoded.
Lastly, LR do not cut the replacement key. You receive a coded blank which you then take to Mr. Minnit and have cut yourself. I checked beforehand that the key cutters would do the job without hassle and the dealer said they could call them if they had any concerns.
In the end the key guy kept asking me various pointed questions about whether or not the key was coded, and whether he could use his code-checking device to see what kind of system it used and what did I pay for it etc. When he did put his device to it, it didn't detect anything in either key, so not sure his tool is relevant to the chip in the LR keys.
Will update when the new barrel goes in, and hope that in the meantime I'm no inconvenienced with any more roadside call outs.
My barrell is also being replaced. Tried the Graphite and seemed to help initially but same ole prob is back.
When I took it to the dealer he asked what I'd used. I replied 'Graphite', he responded....'Thank Goodness', anything else and it turns to gunk!
I'm waiting for the parts to arrive from UK........