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Thread: Puma Ignition Barrel Lock Dodgy

  1. #1
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    Puma Ignition Barrel Lock Dodgy

    G'day. My recently purchased 110 2010 Puma Defender has shown the occasional problem with the key not turning in the ignition barrel. With a bit of jiggling, rocking of steering wheel and squirt of graphite dry lube, i have on two occasions managed to have the lock release and be operable. Obviously no one wants to be in the poistion of total lock 'jam'. So what advise can you give? Is it possible just to purchase a barrel and have a locksmith re-key the lock to my current key? I want to avoid costly dealer repair .. is it possible for a 'home' mechanic to get the lock barrel in and out without stuffing things up?

    Thanks
    2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
    Mittagong NSW 2575

  2. #2
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    No sorry to say it's a trip to the dealer. It has to be re coded. My long lost Puma did this also.

    Allan

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan View Post
    No sorry to say it's a trip to the dealer. It has to be re coded. My long lost Puma did this also.

    Allan
    But isn't the code in the fobby thingy?
    2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
    Mittagong NSW 2575

  4. #4
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    There's a tech bulletin about this (LTB00414v3)

    Defender (LD) Model Year: 2007 Onwards
    VIN: 7A732615 Onwards

    Situation:
    A customer may report a concern that the ignition key will not rotate in the ignition switch or is stiff to operate.
    Solution:
    1. Install a new ignition switch, part YXB500170
    Guess you are out of warranty?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lagerfan View Post
    There's a tech bulletin about this (LTB00414v3)



    Solution:


    Guess you are out of warranty?
    Yep...
    2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
    Mittagong NSW 2575

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lagerfan View Post
    There's a tech bulletin about this (LTB00414v3)



    Solution:
    1. Install a new ignition switch, part YXB500170

    Guess you are out of warranty?
    This part number as listed by Rimmer Bros shows it's been rpelaced by LR035359.

    If you look up that part number you can get prices from pnd 6-30 form LR Direct.

    The part looks like this?



    But aren't I dealing with a mechanical barrel issue??
    2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
    Mittagong NSW 2575

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29dinosaur View Post
    But aren't I dealing with a mechanical barrel issue??
    I dunno! Just quoting the bits from the tech bulletin. Will pm the TB contents.

  8. #8
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    The ignition barrel requires a bit of fluffing around to swap, the are two special screws that retain it, you need to cut som slots in the heads to remove. Its not too hard.

    You canbuy new lock barrels and keys for not too much, but its better to get it re coded to match the doors, you really don't want to carry two ignition keys.

    It could also be the switch mentioned above, that's what failed on my my09. There is an interlock in the electrical switch that stops you engaging the starter motor without switching off first. This breaks and locks up the whole mechanism.

  9. #9
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    Oh and get it fixed asap. Cause one day it will strand you, and its a pain in the arse to get a defender on to a tow truck with a locked steering wheel...especially when its blocking the forecourt of a busy service station owned by a land rover hating mechanic....

    I'd also go back to your dealer, its a safety issue and a known fault, they should still cover it after warranty. They did on mine.

  10. #10
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    I don't see why a locksmith can't service / fix the barrel, at the end of the day there is no electrics in the barrel - you could use any barrel which fits as long as you put the coil back over the front of it or have it close to the FOB.


    Half way down this page of a previous post is a pic of the switch and coil

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...roject-18.html





    Erich

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