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Thread: Defender 90 TD5 2003 Suspension raise 2"

  1. #11
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    Hey Jon,
    What model koni 80 would suit the springs?

    Also does the steering/castor angle just need adjusting or do I need to buy something then adjust? Eg adjustable pan hard rods

    I will get the new front radius arms and hunt down Judy for a new prop shaft.

    This project might be a little bigger than first thought.

    I might see if defender bits will send koni shocks to Aus...

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade74 View Post
    Hey Jon,
    What model koni 80 would suit the springs?

    Also does the steering/castor angle just need adjusting or do I need to buy something then adjust? Eg adjustable pan hard rods

    I will get the new front radius arms and hunt down Judy for a new prop shaft.

    This project might be a little bigger than first thought.

    I might see if defender bits will send koni shocks to Aus...
    To raise properly is always bigger than people first think!

    I think there are only 2 models of 80 Series that will fit a Defender, standard height and for a 40-60mm lift. You want the longer ones.

    When you replace the standard radius arms with castor corrected ones (+3 or +6 degree ones - If the car is always empty, I might err towards the +6's), this will fix the castor / steering geometry issues that are generated by lifting. You will also need some new bushes to go in the new radius arm. GENUINE rubber (not el-cheapo), or SuperPro - choice is yours.

    The propshaft needs replacing so that it doesnt bind in the yokes when you go off-road. Tip re prop-shaft maintenance, dont forget to grease the double cardon joint! It has an almost invisible grease point and is not a standard grease nipple like on the UJs, meaning you'll probably need to get a needle adapter for your grease gun - cheap enough off ebay.

    You wont need an adjustable panhard rod.

    Mention Bailey Morris to Juddy re propshaft.

    Jon
    Regards,
    Jon

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon View Post
    If my memory is failing me and the 90 & 110 rear springs are the same diameter then the KLRR-05 are the ones to get.

    hth
    Jon
    Nothing wrong with your memory Jon...

    90's have significantly smaller diameter coils at the back compared to a 110. They are also shorter and the diameter of the steel in the coil is less as well.

    Cheers,

    Lou

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loubrey View Post
    Nothing wrong with your memory Jon...

    90's have significantly smaller diameter coils at the back compared to a 110. They are also shorter and the diameter of the steel in the coil is less as well.

    Cheers,

    Lou
    Thanks Lou, I thought so, but wasn't 100% sure.

    KRRS-02 or KRRR-02 for the rear then. Cant confirm which one really, its a bit of suck it and see when they are on the vehicle and also depends on what goes on the front and if a bar/winch/steel rope etc is hung over the front end.

    Obviously the aim is to get the car level, or ever so slightly raised at the back when empty.

    hth
    J
    Regards,
    Jon

  5. #15
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    Do some research on the brand of prop shaft you get, one UK company has been selling shafts not rated for on-road use, some members have reported critical problems with them and they fob it off as being used outside design intention, do a forum search for Bailey Morris.
    After reading of failures and grief over getting replacements, I bought a pair of Tom Woods shafts from the USA.

  6. #16
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    Thanks for all the comments guys.
    Since Paddock spares can't deliver I am now reconsidering what to do.
    I called wholesale suspension here in Sydney and the guy on the phone was very helpful.
    He rung Koni Australia and also king springs to confirm things for the 2" raise.

    Koni came back and said you had to use the Raid series and they only bring in the standard height heavy tracks after having lots of issues in the past with springs falling out on defenders and other issues.

    He gave me a height off a previous raise of a 90 with the springs and wanted me to measure my current height so we could work out what raise that may equate to.

    I'm now starting to think I may just keep the car standard height to eliminate all the mods and possible issues.
    Don't know if I'll do enough hard core 4wding to need the lift.

    I may just buy the heavy tracks in standard height for now with the original springs and then think about if the upgrade to king spring standard height is worth the upgrade.

    Decisions decisions...

  7. #17
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    So I got told that the last car raised was 550mm from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of flared guard.

    I measured mine and this is what I got.

    Front Right and Rear Right 505mm
    Front Left and Rear Left 500mm

    I looked at the springs and it appears the rear diameter is approximately 150mm and the front I couldn't measure easily as the shock is in the way but id say approx. 155mm.

    The springs are as follows so I might look up a spring colour conversion table.
    FR - Green and Blue
    FL - Yellow and Blue
    BR - Green, Yellow and Red
    BL - Green, Yellow and White

    The height off the ground to bottom edge of guard is as follows:
    FR - 883mm
    FL - 875mm
    BR - 889mm
    BL - 880mm.

    I haven't checked my tire pressures yet to see if that is adding any variation.

    So I will ponder the two alternatives of raising it or not and if I don't then Koni Heavy track standard heights.

    Is it worth changing to King Spring Standard height(non HD springs)? Will I notice a big difference?

  8. #18
    redline Guest
    Blade, did you ever go ahead with the Koni Raids?

    I am in a similar predicament with a Puma 110, wanting to fit:
    Front Coils - King # KRFR-03 (+30mm)
    Rear Coils - King # KLRR-05 (+30mm)
    Front Shock - KONI # 90-5374 SP1 (0 to +50mm lift)
    Rear Shock - KONI # 90-5375 SP1 (0 to +40mm lift)

    Apparently its quite a common combination, but I can't quite square it with the fact that the shock travel seem to be shorter than stock?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by redline View Post
    Blade, did you ever go ahead with the Koni Raids?

    I am in a similar predicament with a Puma 110, wanting to fit:
    Front Coils - King # KRFR-03 (+30mm)
    Rear Coils - King # KLRR-05 (+30mm)
    Front Shock - KONI # 90-5374 SP1 (0 to +50mm lift)
    Rear Shock - KONI # 90-5375 SP1 (0 to +40mm lift)

    Apparently its quite a common combination, but I can't quite square it with the fact that the shock travel seem to be shorter than stock?
    Id be very interested in anyone that has done this. Its the exact same combination I wanted to use but I too was put off by the published Koni Lengths.
    Regards,
    Jon

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon View Post
    Ok, so Im working from memory here... Its been 4 years since I sold stuff for a 90.

    1. You are right in thinking you do NOT want the HD King Springs - in a usually empty they are WAY to hard.
    2. In a usually empty 90 you do NOT want the 90 series Koni's these to are WAY to hard and combined you will not have any suspension or axle flex!
    3.KRFR-03 or KRRR-02 are a good choice for the front - they are about the same but the 02's are a tad taller and can be used to level the normally lower front end up a bit if vehicles are normally empty.
    4. Check the diameter of the rear springs. From memory the coil diameters on a 90 are smaller than on a 110, therefore the KLRR-05's will have too big a diameter. Someone else can come in and confirm this. If my memory is failing me and the 90 & 110 rear springs are the same diameter then the KLRR-05 are the ones to get.
    5. The rear propshaft will be fine with KLRR-05's
    6. Trailing arm bushes at the chassis end will flog out A LITTLE sooner than with standard height springs, but this really isnt a problem. The cure is cranked rear trailing arms, but it really is an expense that isnt necessary.
    7. Steering Geometry - There are several ways of overcoming the castor issue.
    7a. Front propshaft. This should be changed for a double-cardon prop (not the disco unit and changed transfer flange if you want it to last). Ive always found the new prop to be the best solution (Juddy on here can sort you out with an excellent unit from the UK)
    7b. Front Radius arms - Ideally you would change these for either +3 or +6 degree ones. You can save cash by removing your existing bushes and replacing with castor corrected ones, or by slotting your swivels. My money always swaps the arms for +3 or +6.

    So now, having shot your plans to bits what dampers would I suggest... Difficult choice as there are hundreds to choose from. If money isnt so much of an issue, Koni 80's, on a bit more of a budget but always had very good results and customer feedback and work well with the King Springs, Tough Dog Foam Cells (not the adjustable version). Bilstein and OME are also worth a look.

    Make sure your dampers will compress to the same length as the ones that come off and extend approx 40-50mm longer than the standard ones.

    hth
    Jon
    What an excellent post Jon. Some really solid info there.
    Pickles.

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