Thread: Nipping going into 3rd gear

sounds like the pilot bearing - the oilite bearing that the input shaft on the gearbox rests on within the flywheel is dry. That woudl explain the squeal and the dragging clutch going into 3. Unfortunately it's a gearbox out job to fix, and you might as well put a new clutch, flywheel and rear main seal in at the same time. (Unless you are doing the box removal yourself and don't have to pay for it to be done, in which case - pull the box - replace the bearing and stick it back together again until something else brakes.)

Yikes! that sounds expensive

Any idea what a job like that might set you back ? Don't have the know-how or tools to do it myself unfortunately...

Flywheel is about $900
Clutch I think was about $600
Rear main seal I think was $50

So I think about $1600 in parts, and about 8 hours labour.. Pretty much added up to $2.5k when I had mine done.

If it is that bearing - I just remembered it's proper name - The Spigot Bearing, then you can drive it for quite a long time like that. Just be careful going into third and make sure you rev match better and it will go for a long time. If you can change gears without using the clutch then you can drive with a stiff spigot bearing - as long as you can put up with the cold squeal.


You might also benefit from disconnecting the switch on the clutch master cylinder, this will prevent the ECU from playing with the throttle when you change gears. It made my stiff second gear TD5, a heap easier to drive, because I can now more easily get the rev's to match.

Ok, I was thinking it would run into that kind of money..

I've been careful to prevent the nipping most of the time but I have to remember every time - and that doesn't happen with anything

Haven't noticed (is it noticeable?) the ECU playing with the throttle before so I'm starting to suspect that function might be gone too... I'll take a look at the master cylinder and try to find that switch.

Thanks for the advice Bilbo, much appreciated.

You'll notice it when its gone. Most noticeable as that special defender trick of having the cars behind nearly rear end you when you change into second taking off from the lights. That's because the ecu kills the power for a few seconds on gear changes. Disconnect the switch and then it drives like a normal car.

If you have to fix it or notice it getting worse, try and plan it and check the price for the parts direct from one of many U.K suppliers compared to LR Oz, you could save about 1/2 the price.

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/products/...s/clutch-parts

http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-a...er/clutch.html

etc.

I just went through the exact same thing on my D2 TD5 and the wallet has taken a beating.

At first the spigot bush started squawking then it started clunking into 4th. Then it would get hard to change up and down gears. This all happened on a 400km trip. I was hoping it was just the clutch and spigot bush but on removal the spigot bush had collapsed and possibly put pressure on the input bearing to the gearbox and that had collapsed. When draining the oil it was full of filings. The Dual Mass fly wheel was also stuffed.

So I had a Solid flywheel and clutch fitted and new gearbox.

I hope yours is not as bad as this but just giving you a worst case scenario so you don't keep driving it and stuff the box and have to mortgage the house to repair it.

Hey guys, just got the diagnosis - spigot gone

Going to book it in for a rebuild. Can anyone tell me the parts I should have replaced while its off.

So far I'm looking for:
Clutch kit
Spigot bearing
Rear main seal
Flywheel

Is there anything else I should add to that list ? Are there brands I should avoid for any of those parts ?

Thanks