Thread: Dual Battery Install - 2013 110

Originally Posted by Willow4

Hi Leroy,

I did some research and found a number of recommendations for using the yellow top and also found some that did not support the yellow tops.

And then I read an article in an English LR magazine (just can't find it at the moment) and the article showed an install using two yellow tops and a Blue Sea isolator. It was highly recommended configuration by a prominent LR specialist.

So I bit the bullet and went with them and based my install on the article - but used Tim's USI-160 isolator instead of the Blue Seas. I also spoke to Tim a number of times on the phone.

So far, the yellow top cranks the defender with no issues what so ever. I can not tell any difference from the original battery.

Whilst I don't have a winch yet (will try and sneak that purchase in shortly), Tim's USI-160 can be set to winch mode and will join the two yellow tops together for winching. If you seen one - have a look, its a very cleaver bit of kit.

Overall I am very impressed with both the yellow tops and Tim's isolator.

Yep, I've had a good run from yellow tops and the USI myself - I can even confirm that the USI keeps going when submerged for hours on end (not recommended though!)

Now running Odysseys, which seem to be better again.

I might have to invest (in the distant future that is!) in another D34 and one of these 'fancy' Isolators then

so correct me If I am wrong but this Isolator gives you modes like this:

- Primary and Secondary batteries disconnected (from each other)

- Primary and Secondary batteries connected 'one way/Diode' for charging Secondary battery

- Primary and Secondary batteries in Parallel for winch or 'self jump-start'?

seems like a good bit of kit.

Leroy

EDIT: wonder how running 3 D34's with two of these Isolators or a special 3way would work? the ability to parallel all three for Winch and or parallel any two together for either winch or deep cycle duties. . . that is more up my alley

Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

I might have to invest (in the distant future that is!) in another D34 and one of these 'fancy' Isolators then

so correct me If I am wrong but this Isolator gives you modes like this:

- Primary and Secondary batteries disconnected (from each other)

- Primary and Secondary batteries connected 'one way/Diode' for charging Secondary battery

- Primary and Secondary batteries in Parallel for winch or 'self jump-start'?

seems like a good bit of kit.

Leroy

EDIT: wonder how running 3 D34's with two of these Isolators or a special 3way would work? the ability to parallel all three for Winch and or parallel any two together for either winch or deep cycle duties. . . that is more up my alley

I'm sure Traxide will be along shortly, but I can confirm that a second auxiliary D34 works fine with this system - just run it in parallel with the 'primary' auxiliary ala camper trailer-style arrangements.

Originally Posted by n plus one

I'm sure Traxide will be along shortly, but I can confirm that a second auxiliary D34 works fine with this system - just run it in parallel with the 'primary' auxiliary ala camper trailer-style arrangements.

somehow in my head I though s diff setup would be needed(*facepalm*) but if you have two 'secondary batteries in parallel then when winching you effective do have 3 in parallel, given that proper cables are used this should be fine I guess. . . but if in the 'camper trailer' setup chances are the cabling is thin and not rated for winch currents so you would want to be able to disconnect the third battery in that arrangement. (if using smaller gauge cable to the 3rd that is)

Leroy

Leroy,

here is the link to the USI-160 at Traxide. It has both the install instructions and explains the various mode.

http://www.traxide.com.au/files/USI160_Install.pdf

I haven't setup a second aux battery, so I'll let others (or Tim) explain the best way to do it.

Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

somehow in my head I though s diff setup would be needed(*facepalm*) but if you have two 'secondary batteries in parallel then when winching you effective do have 3 in parallel, given that proper cables are used this should be fine I guess. . . but if in the 'camper trailer' setup chances are the cabling is thin and not rated for winch currents so you would want to be able to disconnect the third battery in that arrangement. (if using smaller gauge cable to the 3rd that is)

Leroy

If you actually had the third. (i.e. 2nd auxiliary) battery down in a camper trailer, you should have that cable run protected (say with a 50amp auto reset circuit breaker at each end if the run) which would address high current drain events (i.e. winching type situations).

Originally Posted by n plus one

If you actually had the third. (i.e. 2nd auxiliary) battery down in a camper trailer, you should have that cable run protected (say with a 50amp auto reset circuit breaker at each end if the run) which would address high current drain events (i.e. winching type situations).

I understand that part, I was more thinking along the lines of having 3 batteries in the car itself, and possibly a 4th in a trailer. having the ability to have a proper 3 way setup would be great.

something that allowed all three in parallel or any given 2 in parallel or all 3 disconnected from each other just adds some versatility to the setup that I guess most wont see beneficial, but to me I see it as something I would like. that and there is a photo on the forum somewhere of 3x D34's under the seat in a Defender

I also like to take my 'toys'(RC Helicopters which require there batteries to be charged) with me and I'm also a little scared of the dark so that means lots of lights, so being able to have 2 batteries for deep cycle use and still maintain one for cranking(without having to run the car at night in a campsite to charge my deep cycle back up), or run 2 for winching without the extra stress of the fridges and lights running off the same 2 batteries. . though by its own right a 3 battery setup with the two secondary batters permanently in parallel I'm sure will more than suffice. . .

Leroy

Originally Posted by n plus one

If you actually had the third. (i.e. 2nd auxiliary) battery down in a camper trailer, you should have that cable run protected (say with a 50amp auto reset circuit breaker at each end if the run) which would address high current drain events (i.e. winching type situations).

Right on the money n plus one.



Hi Leroy and don’t take this as some form of slagging. It is not meant to be, but you are over thinking everything.

Consider this, if you keep your batteries, ALL of them, parallel wired at all times, you will have a number of advantages.

First one and going on your need for lots of lights, by keeping all your batteries connected, you will not only have far more power available for running your lights, but even if you don’t need anywhere near that much additional capacity, it will still mean you will not be discharging all your batteries anywhere near as low as you would when using only one or two for the same job.

This in itself has a number of advantages, like because none of your batteries are discharged that low, this will help to extend the life span of all your batteries.

But there is an immediate advantage in that when you do hit the road, because none of your batteries are that low, you will fully charge all of them in a shorter drive time, meaning are far more likely to actually have more power available at your next stop, than you would if you only use some of your batteries while camping.

The other advantage is that if all your batteries are constantly at the same level of charge, you will not have energy being wasted when the batteries of different charge levels equalise when the motor is off.