Thread: Defender Puma 2.2 Problems

Originally Posted by uninformed

After speaking to someone more in the know than me, the Tdci lt230 has approx 400ml less oil capacity due to the angle it is mounted on. This is almost 1/5 or 20% reduction. There also may have been some reduction in quality of gear materials and machining. This based on having to repair/replace newer lt230s with km that just would not worry the older units.....

I looked into a trans sump before last trip. As JC had noticed burnt oil from Tdci Lt230 boxes. I concluded a bigger sump will miss the exhaust by perhaps 2cm, so though holding more oil will bring it closer to the heat source. Kind of cancelled out any gain. Given I'm on a second trans box I can only hope the build quality or materials are better than the first.

Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

SNIP
the transfer level dropping out of 'CDL' then leaving me 'un locked' seems to happen every time I take the defender out. I've never mentioned it to the dealer though, thought I just must not be pushing it across far enough, is this a known issue? is there a fix?
also the excessive backlash in the rear was told 'that's just what they are like' so never had anything done about that.

other than that happy sailing.

Mine dropped out a few times. I asked the dealer to check the lever mechanism as it seemed quite floppy. The dealer found metal filing inside and a new box was ordered and fitted. 1st box I had to drive for a few meters holding the stick to make sure it stayed engaged. New box I just pop it in and go.

Diff back lash, yes that's familiar, and so is the answer. I sorted mine rather than wait for a dilemma. Family holidays in remote areas are not worth waiting for a road side assist.

what about some exhaust wrap or heat shield?

Originally Posted by uninformed

what about some exhaust wrap or heat shield?

That was my first thought too, as that's what I did with the big pipe in the Tdi.
It's made a big difference.


BTW, I took some readings yesterday after a 40km run up the highway sitting on 110-115km/h and the t/case read 46-60*C, depending on where I pointed the IR thermometer.

Ambient was around 15*C.

Originally Posted by newhue

I looked into a trans sump before last trip. As JC had noticed burnt oil from Tdci Lt230 boxes. I concluded a bigger sump will miss the exhaust by perhaps 2cm, so though holding more oil will bring it closer to the heat source. Kind of cancelled out any gain. Given I'm on a second trans box I can only hope the build quality or materials are better than the first.



Mine dropped out a few times. I asked the dealer to check the lever mechanism as it seemed quite floppy. The dealer found metal filing inside and a new box was ordered and fitted. 1st box I had to drive for a few meters holding the stick to make sure it stayed engaged. New box I just pop it in and go.

Diff back lash, yes that's familiar, and so is the answer. I sorted mine rather than wait for a dilemma. Family holidays in remote areas are not worth waiting for a road side assist.

This all makes very interesting reading! I've got a 2013 110, and have obviously noticed the backlash in the drive train.

Newhue, or any one else, is there any way to quantify how much backlash should be allowed or accepted? Every Landrover I have owned has had significant backlash within the system, except all the others have been much older and second hand. My new 110 feels almost worse than my 1997 110 with just under 300000km on it?

I can drive the 110 so that no noise is herd, mostly. Doing technical 4wd'ing will bring it out again, as well as getting my wife to drive it.

How much is too much?

Excuse my ignorance guys, but what is backlash?

Ive noticed that if I am not quite gentle letting clutch out it has a "chatter" that sounds a little like play in the rear universals. (but could be something entirely different). Is that what you are talking about?

back lash is the play in the drive line regarding diffs, can be front to the rear. Well that is my understanding but others will be more precise description.

Under load, and didn't have to be all that big, if I pushed the clutch in I once got a chuga chuga chuga which was the rear drive shaft and diff working out there differences.
I could rarely change gears with out a clunk, or several of them. One for power off, one for power on, and didn't matter how I worked the clutch in with it all.

LR said, na, that is normal.

Well I recently went for a long remote trip. I didn't want a diff failure out where I was going. So I swapped out the original P38 for a reconditioned Salisbury with a Detroit locker.
Now days the whole drive line is quiet as a mouse. Changing gears is as you would expect from a new vehicle, though mine now has 85K on it.

I'm not sure how you convince LR that something is a miss with your diff. I think I recall 1/3 of a turn is acceptable someone said on here once. Cant recall exactly.
But I just checked mine and on flat drive way, out of gear and no hand brake the drive shaft moves 2cm, so maybe 1/8 on the old pie chart.

I have a My12 Defender that had 17klm's on it when I bought it 2 weeks ago. This might sound stupid but I have found the only way I can change gears clean is when I come back onto the accelerater before I completely release the clutch. I noticed that the engine revs start to drop and then hold themselves when they get to between 1500-2000 RPM, and my foot is completely off the throttle.

So it feels like if I put my foot back onto the throttle and get it positioned to about where 1500-2000RPM would be while the revs are hanging there, then release the clutch completely, the gear change is smooth as a babies bottom every time.. Otherwise I get the backlash thing you are talking about.

I am also waiting for seals for the front left hand wheel, which they need to come from the U.K, so in the meantime I have grease and oil getting thrown around everywhere. They advised me to stay off the sand or dirt until it's done.

I'm a bit worried about taking the family anywhere in it at the moment, until I get an issue free period that I'm happy with.

Had a call from the mechanic yesterday to tell me they still have no drive unless the center diff is locked even with the 2nd hand transfer box. They removed the front diff to find the spider gears in bits.
Be warned if your center diff lets go & you intend to drive anywhere remove one tail shaft before driving anywhere or you can load everything up until it goes bang.
I'm driving it back to Sydney tomorow with the front diff in no axles & center diff locked, replacement parts have been priced so should be back to normal soon.
Don